Asturias

I like days like this……………..I’ve had a lovely day…………pottering.

The body is a marvellous thing and over the last few weeks I’ve probably put mine through a bit more than the average 53 year old. So I decided last night not to set my alarm because today was going to be a relaxing day. I decided to wake up when my body decided it was time to wake up………………and that was 9:30am 🤭 I did feel a little lazy, but my body must have needed it as that was literally the first eye open time. And sometimes I think it’s good to just let things take their natural course. To have a day when you just let it evolve and do all the nice things that you like to do in your own time. First stop after breakfast was the allotment…………and look what I got…………..yes, it’s red fruit time…….. I love this small variety of strawberry, they are so sweet!

So then I had the dilemma of what to do with it all. I’ve given lots of it away (neighbours love me at this time of year), some has been kept back for jam making tomorrow evening, and today I’ve been doing one of my other favourite things …….. baking, as I have both boys back now and they eat a lot! Today’s bakes were a coffee walnut loaf cake and then to use the fruit up, a summer fruit pavlova with vanilla Chantilly cream. And just to prove that sometimes even I have a kitchen fail I’ve included a picture of the pavlova which collapsed somewhat! 😂

Coffee Walnut Loaf
Summer Fruit Pavlova – collapsed!

Then I’ve been for a little 10k trot around the block as I wanted to eat my baked goods so thought I’d better earn it! Then I’ve read for a while. This evening I’ve sat and typed my blog in peace and quiet while eating Pavlova as the boys have gone to the pub to watch the England match. But by all accounts, from what keeps popping up on my phone, in my opinion their time would have been much better spent staying in eating Pavlova! 😂😂 I can confirm it tasted better better than it looked in its collapsed state…….perfectly crunchy on the outside which soft, spongy marshmallow like meringue on the inside, the sweetness of the cream contrasting just perfectly with the sharpness of the fruit. 😍

It’s good!

So I’m going to tell you all about my trip to Asturias northern Spain. It was outstandingly beautiful………I loved it and can’t wait to go back.

Asturias

I’ll tell you all about what I got up to and what I think are the things you should not miss whilst you are there.

Adventures make me smile!

I’ll tell you about it in two parts, because it was a bit of a two part holiday and there is so much to tell you. Asturias is home to the Picos de Europa mountain range and I spent four days adventuring there. I appreciate that adventuring in the mountains is not everyone’s idea of a holiday but it really does deserve a post all of its own so I’ll tell you about that separately.

One of my favourite sounds……sea crashing on rocks.

In this first post I’ll share with you the northern coast of Asturias and what the must sees are if you want a more leisurely visit and some gentle walks, relaxation time, food and beach visits. I’ll apologise now for the length of the post but it’s just beautiful, the perfect place for me and I really did not want to come home, I could have stayed there for ever!

Lots of nice places to get your dress on and go on an evening.

The closest airport to Asturias is Oviedo, but it’s quite a small airport and if you are flying from the UK, London Gatwick is the only place where you can get a direct flight from at the moment. That’s not convenient for me as it’s a 5 hour drive away so I flew to Bilbao from Manchester. You can get a flight to Bilbao from a number of UK airports and the drive time to Asturias is only two hours on some really good, quiet motorways.

So many pretty flowers in Spring.

I hired a car at the airport, a little Renault Clio, and it was perfect. I would not recommend anything bigger if you are wanting to visit the mountains, but yet you probably don’t want anything smaller in engine size as that might struggle with some of the gradients in the Picos.

Lots of this sort of cuteness 😍

It was a lovely drive from the airport, with the sea in sight for a lot of the way. I find driving in Spain quite a pleasure. It’s not like Portugal, Italy or Greece where the standard of driving can leave a lot to be desired and it can be quite a nerve wrecking experience. It was a really early morning flight and I would have arrived at my destination well before the check in time so I broke the two hour drive up by calling for some brunch and a little look around the pretty little coastal town of San Vincente de la Barquera.

San Vincente de la Barquera

San Vincente de la Barquera is actually in Cantabria and not Asturias. It is a lovely town to stop in en-route. It has a pretty old town, a charming harbour full of brightly coloured bobbing boats, a panoramic setting on the river and some fantastic restaurants specialising mainly in seafood. The estuary is spanned by the Maza bridge with its 28 arches and atop the hill sits the castle and the church of Santa Maria de los Angeles.

A walk to the castle.

It was a lovely place to have a little leg stretch, a beer in the sunshine and sample some Padron peppers, chiorizo in cider and a lovely salad. Well, you might as well start as you mean to go on! 😝

Oh, and you have to have a photo taken in the little boat………so cute. Lunch was walked off with a stroll to the castle at the top of the hill to admire the old town and views over the estuary. I spotted my first Camino signs which always make me smile, and it was the perfect place to get into that relaxed holiday mindset. I was already getting a good feel for the place………..when you get that comfortable feeling and think, “Ah, I feel like I’m going to like it here”. Everyone was really happy and friendly.

This way for the Caminos

It was only a half an hour drive from there to the town where I had decided to base myself for the 9 days………….Llanes. Now, I simply fell in love with Llanes, I adored it. It is a working fishing town and it is really busy and bustling all the time. It has an old town, medieval town walls, churches, restaurants, bars, the prettiest harbour, a busy market, just the best Confitería (cake shop) and lots of ice cream shops! There was nothing to not like about it…………….it was like being deposited in the middle of all my favourite things!😍

Llanes Harbour

The town has an outstandingly beautiful setting. Not only does it have its own three gorgeous beaches of fine golden sand, if you walk a little further out of town in either direction you stumble across the most spectacular beaches ever. They are a little bit like the small coves in Cornwall with the advantage of the food and weather being better and there being no British people. 😂 And there is so much space on them.

Evening on one of the beautiful beaches of Llanes

I had booked an apartment through one of the major apartment booking portals and it very much exceeded my expectations. It was on the third floor of a small apartment block which overlooked the entrance to the harbour. It was out of the way of the main harbour, tucked away and really quiet, but had a fantastic sea view. It would have slept four, so there was lots of room for me and it was really well equipped. It felt like a home away from home rather than a holiday let, as the gentleman who owns it, quite obviously lives there when he’s not working away so it had lots of personal touches including a turntable and fantastic vinyl record collection which you were free to use! It looked like he was a child of the 70’s like me so there were some classics to choose from and plenty of opportunity for a little living room disco!

Fishing Boats in the harbour.

It had a chaise longue style sofa in the living room window which overlooked the renovated stone fishing sheds. I love to people watch and watch the world go by and spent so much time with the windows wide open just watching the fishing boats come in and out in the morning and evening, with all the fishermen sat outside mending their nets during the day. It was the perfect book reading and people watching spot in the sunshine.

The perfect morning coffee and people and harbour watching spot.

For breakfast I had the same thing every morning…………………….CAKE!!!!! At home I never have cake for breakfast, it’s just not an English thing. I either have yoghurt and granola with fruit, or plain porridge with honey. However, when I’m in Spain or Italy I have cake! Not the same cake each day, but a different one every morning. I get out of bed, have a little stretch, sometimes a little run if I get up feeling energetic, and trot to the cake shop……..as it has to be a fresh cake. Llanes quite simply has one of the best cake shops I have ever been in, and I am most embarrassed to say that by the time I departed I was well known in it!🤣It’s called the Confitería Vega and you must go if in Llanes. My favourite was the Bomba de Crema which I can only describe as like a split, icing sugared, very light, brioche type roll filled with custard. But I also liked the lemon meringues, nut and caramel tarts, almond croissants, icing covered swirls, custard tarts, chocolate Cubos de la Memoria and chocolate cherries……………………………I tried them all!!!🤣

There’s a lovely cafe around the corner too, in the main square, where you can get an excellent coffee and watch the world go by when you’ve indulged in your cake!

The lovely and lively main square in Llanes.

My first day was spent in Llanes, wandering, because when I arrive somewhere I like to have a really good look around and just relax a little. I was also tired from travelling as I’d literally finished work and then left for the airport six hours later as I like to maximise my time away. It was a bit of an overcast day but dry.

A wander around the harbour……
and streets of Llanes.

The first thing you notice on the breakwater are hundreds of brightly painted concrete blocks. They are a permanent art installation on both sides of the harbour entrance, but obviously serve a purpose as a breakwater. Los Cubos de la Memoria (The Cubes of Memory) were completed in 2006 and are a must see in the town.

All three of the town’s beaches are worth noting: El Sablon, Puertu Chicu and Toro. They are all different. El Sablon is the busiest town beach with all the amenities close by. Puertu Chicu is a little hidden and full of locals but it disappears at high tide. I think my favourite was Toro, just because of its natural setting and the unusual rock formations all along the beach which make it really sheltered and provide a perfect back rest if you are a beach book reader like me.

Toro Beach in Llanes ……. my favourite of the town’s beaches.

On the other side of the town from Toro beach is the access to the cliff top promenade. This is a long grassed walkway along the top of the cliff. It has the most outstanding view of the town down below and is lined with benches for you to sit and rest, and telescopes for you to take a look out to sea. On a weekend and on a sunny evening all the town seemed to be up here stretching their legs. A very friendly and convivial meeting spot. It’s also perfect for that early morning or late evening jog for anyone that likes a little run like me.

The town’s cliff top promenade.

By the time I’d done all the above I was hungry and tired again. Llanes has some fantastic seafood and I love squid so my fist day was finished off with a lovely plate of Calamares a la Romana (Squid) followed by a little Vermut in the harbour which made me all sleepy and ready for my comfy bed.

In terms of places to eat and bars there are just so many to choose from in Llanes and the surrounding area. There are numerous Siderias where you will get the traditional Asturian dishes and cider, then there are tapas restaurants, pizzas……..you name it and it will be there. When I fancied a change I even found an excellent Mexican to satisfy my need for a Tequila cocktail because when you are on holiday you just have to have a cocktail don’t you?!😂

Oh yes!……….I’ve found the Tequilla………a whole mug of it! 😍🤭

The following day I was ready for a bit of an explore. The good thing about being based in Llanes is that it has a little train station. But it’s not just any old railway line. They call it the FEVE and it’s a little narrow guage railway line which runs all along most of the Northern coast of Spain. The train only comes a couple of times a day and it’s extremely slow! It chugs along, hooting at every road crossing, and goes from small village to small village all along the coast. Some stations it stops at as a matter of course, and others, in small villages, you have to request it to stop. It is so scenic as you trundle along through the villages and fields of animals, with intermittent glimpses of the sea.

Bleary eyed early morning train ride on the FEVE line.

The railway line follows closely the route of the Camino del Norte and I love to walk so I had a little plan to get on the morning train to a small village called Pendueles around 15km from Llanes, pick up the Camino path and walk all the way back to Llanes on the Camino. So off I went with the orange rucksack to catch the little train. Pendueles is a request stop so I made sure to tell the conductor when I got on that I wanted it to stop there.

It was a sleepy little village but it had that all important little village café in which to get that café con leche before starting to walk.

This must have been my slowest walk ever! It took me all morning to walk around 5 miles. Not that it was difficult, anyone could have walked it. It was just so beautiful! I just had to keep stopping, taking photographs and just absorbing my surroundings. Spring is surely a beautiful time to visit…………..so very green, lots of wildlife and so many beautiful flowers……………..just like the world is waking back up after hibernating for winter.

I just wandered along following the yellow arrows, through fields and woods and the path kept leading me from one beautiful beach to another. And when I say beautiful I don’t just mean a little bit beautiful but outstandingly beautiful. Turquoise sea, golden sand, big blue skies, fluffy clouds, the sound of the waves on the rocks and absolutely no-one on some of them. They were deserted………….it was stunning. So the book kept coming out and I just had to keep stopping. But there was no rush, I was on holiday and that’s what holidays are for!

I lost count of the number of beautiful coves I passed.

I then accidently discovered my best find of the day. I was hungry so looked on my phone to see where I might be able to get some food. As if by luck, around 1km off the path was a village called Vidiago. It was 1pm by now, but it said there was a place called Sidreria Casa El Rubiu that was open. I walked through the very pretty but quiet village to reach the other side where I could see a number of cars parked and I could hear lots on conviviality going on. Well this really was my best find of the day. I was warmly welcomed and sat in a lovely flower filled courtyard and taken through the menu. I said I wanted to try something local but I was hungry so the waiter suggested I might like to try a small Cachopo. He explained it was two thin fillets of veal fried in breadcrumbs, but sandwiched between the two pieces of veal are cheese and dried cured meat of your choice. He said his choice would be with Cecina (a dried, smoked, cured beef from around Leon), and Cabrales cheese (a cheese local to the area of Asturias). So that’s what I ordered and where my love affair with Cachopo began…………………it is delicious! It came with potatoes and peppers and filled the hungry hole in my tummy. I was also informed that if I wasn’t driving I had to have it with cider as a Sidreria is a ‘cider house’ so that’s the menu…………………cider and traditional cooking.

However, I have to inform you that I poured half my cider on the patio!😂 And it was not by choice. In these parts they pour the cider into the glass from a great height and just a few mouthfuls worth at a time. They drink that bit and then pour a bit more into the glass. This is because it creates effervescence and foam which helps to release the cider’s aromas and taste. So I had a little lesson, was poured my first few mouthfuls, and was then left on my own to practice! It did not go too well but I reckon I drunk about half of the bottle and shared the other half with the floor but by the end of the meal my technique had improved significantly! And I have to say that by the end of the week I’d drunk that much cider I’d got it off to a fine art.😆

My Cachopo ❤️
Washed down with this which I shared with the garden path! 😂

So I bid them a farewell around 3pm and carried on my way. The afternoon involved more flowers, more beaches, animals and coffee stops. I also discovered the ‘Bufones de Arenillas’! These natural rock formations sounded fantastic but you would have to come on a stormy day to see them at their best. Basically water comes rushing under the sea cliff and escapes up through the holes with the water pressure shooting the water up in a 20 metre high column. The photos of it on the information board looked fantastic but it was a calm day so on that particular day you could only hear the thunderous roar of the water but there was not enough pressure to force it through the hole. The noise was still impressive though.

I rolled into Llanes at around 8pm just as the sun was falling in the sky and just had time for a little nightcap (alcoholic drink) before retiring for the night as I had deserved it after all that walking!

Cheers!

The following day it was dull and overcast, the perfect day for a city visit so I drove to the city of Oviedo, just over an hour away from Llanes. It’s a really nice, compact city and you can definitely see the main sights in a day. If you make your way to the tourist information office in the old town they will arm you with a map and show you the main sights to visit.

The Square of the Tourist Information Office

It has the lovely cathedral of San Salvador in the Plaza de la Catedral that is worth a look at. Around the corner is another lovely square called the Plaza del Fonton. It is a lovely old, arcaded square with a number of cafes and restaurants and is also where the market is held on certain days. It has lots of lovely old buildings with flower filled window boxes. It is really pretty and a good spot for a coffee.

One thing I did notice about Ovideo was the abundance of statue castings in the streets. There are so many dotted all over the city. There’s one of La Gitana or ‘Gypsy Woman’, one of ‘La Bella Lola’ sat on a bench in Plaza Del Fonton, La Pescadera in one square and one of the Milkmaid in another. There’s also a statue of Woody Allen and I could not quite work out why Oviedo would have a statue to him. Anyway, it turns out he fell in love with Oviedo and set part of his film Vicky Christina Barcelona there.

There’s also a lovely park on the edge of the city which is worth having a walk around. It’s called the Campo de San Francisco. There is a band stand, more statues, lots of lovely planting and it’s just generally a lovely peaceful place. It also has a much loved and visited statue sat on a bench……………that of Mafalda. She is a well known 6 year old little girl cartoon character from an Argentine comic strip……………..have a little look and sit with her……she’s cute!

So that was my little whirlwind tour of Oviedo. It did not even take a day so on the way back I called at another fishing town, Ribadesella. It’s ok there and I can imagine it gets very busy in summer as it has a lovely beach………….but I did not like it as much as Llanes. It seemed to lack that buzz and atmosphere, but maybe it was because the weather was dull and everyone was inside.

Ribadesella

I did however, spot an interesting monument of two men in a canoe. The Sella river enters the sea at Ribadesella and apparently a very popular pastime it to descend the river right from the roman bridge in Cangas de Onis in the mountains, 20km away, to Ribadesella. In fact it’s that popular it is an annual international canoeing event and the statue is there on the winners promenade to mark and celebrate the fastest descents of the Sella river.

The monument to the record descents of the River Sella

Four lovely days in the Picos de Europa mountains followed which I’ll do a separate post on, as there is so much to tell you about the Picos, and mountains are either your thing or they are not, so I’ll not bore you with my mountain adventures now.

After my three days walking and exploring the Picos de Europa I decided to have a little running adventure. But when I say running I mean more of a jog………that way I could cover more miles than walking but not tire myself out. I decided to catch the FEVE in the other direction, west, and get off at a village 16 miles away called Nueva. Then the plan was to jog back the 16 miles to Llanes, taking all day with regular stops.

More beautiful beaches in this direction…………….

It was another beautiful day and the 16 miles west of Llanes is just as pretty as the 16 miles East. There were more cows, beautiful beaches, big cloudy skies, cool rock formations………….

………………then some scuplture, more pretty flowers and a very good lunch stop in Niembru at ‘La Parrilla del Cuera’ where they made me a delicious tuna salad.

On leaving Niembru you come to a really pretty estuary and on an outlet sits the very photogenic church of Parroquia Nuestra Senora de los Dolores. Then there were more beautiful beaches and donkeys.😍 Fortunately I did not get lost. I was following the Camino in reverse so there were no signs going in my direction. But it was quite straightforward………..just up and down winding lanes which ran close to the sea. There were more cows and I discovered a unique talent I have for talking to sheep………I baaaa ……….and they all baaaaa back………..it’s the little things that amuse me! 😂

Parroquia Nuestra Senora de los Dolores

……………and another.

Then I came to a fantastic spot to watch the waves crashing on the rocks………………I could have sat here for hours as I just love that sound.

I started to get a glimpse of Llanes ahead of me, sat on the clifftop. It was not before time as I was starting to get a little weary. It was nice to see Llanes from a different angle though. A birds eye view of the town tucked behind Playa de Sablon.

Birds Eye View of Llanes

Just time then for a quick shower and change of clothes ready for a little wander around town and a well earned beer!

Just one day left to enjoy and I suddenly realised I’d come on holiday, and although I’d had a big mental rest, I’d not really had much of a physical rest other than first thing in the morning and the evening, as there was so much to see and do. So I made it in my way to have a rest day in Llanes. The day started as it always does……………with cake!

Walnut Tart!

It was a lovely sunny day so I sat on a cliff top bench, using my beach towel as a cushion, for a few hours to read my book.

Then it was coffee time in the square because I can’t sit for more than a few hours without moving. 😆

I spent the afternoon on my favourite beach……..Toro……….reading my book and watching the contrasting storm clouds roll across the mountains, whilst I sat in the glorious sunshine on the beach.

Just leave me here!

Then every beach visit has to be enhanced with a cool beer and a packet of Lays!

All that was left to see of Llanes was a little walk up to the hill top castle like church of Ermita Virgen de la Guía to watch the sunset on a fantastic week away. Oh…….I just had time to slip in another Vermut!

Ermita Virgen de la Guía

I left for Bilbao the following morning for my afternoon flight and this time I broke up the journey in Santillana del Mar. I was only there for two hours but this was such a pretty medieval town for a walk around and a coffee in the square if you are ever in the area. There is some pre-historic art in some caves nearby but I did not have time to look so that will have to be something for next time.

So that’s Asturias for you……………..well this little corner of Asturias anyway.

It’s outstandingly beautiful and I just have to come back this summer during my month in Spain and surrounding areas. I’m going to do some walking but I also have this little plan to ride a little bit more of the FEVE and just stop at random places along the route to see some more little coastal towns and go with the flow. I also need to come back for cheese!!! I fitted as much Cabrales into my carry on as possible but I’ve eaten it already! I just love cheese and in Northern Spain and Basque country you can get fantastic cheese. In fact that very British supermarket with an M and an S in the title have now become aware of the gorgeousness of Basque cheese and have started stocking a DOP Ossau Iraty French Basque cheese and it’s really nice if you want to taste what I’m talking about. I came back with a large quantity of Idiazabal from Bilbao last summer, with it all bulging out of the top of my rucksack.😂 So the objective this summer will be to travel a light as possible so I can export as much cheese as possible from Northern Spain and Basque Country for my own consumption! You’ll smell me before you see me at Bilbao airport!😆

This time I managed to squeeze quite a bit of this in the homeward bound rucksack……..DOP Cabrales………..it was delicious.

Anyway, my summer is fast approaching, when I leave the country for over a month and don’t have much time to write. I’m going to some familiar places, some new places and am really excited about making some more exciting memories and learning some new things to tell you about.

There will be some time in Crete too, a lot of time in Spain including a very well known festival and a Camino. And then a really exciting short trip to Chamonix Mont Blanc in the last week of August where something very exciting is happening (it’s a secret) which I will be able to tell you about in September. I’ll be back later in the summer or in September, if not before, so watch this space and have fun.

Paris!

The city of love and romance! That’s where I went at Easter. It seems such a long time ago though as so much has happened since. Firstly I have a child back home for summer! I have them both back home for the weekend, but one is here until September and I love it when they come back. The novelty did wear off a little bit when he was left home alone for a week while I went to Spain. Let’s just say it looked like he’d had rather a good time in my absence. 😆 But the damage was minor and I can let these things go, in the grand scheme of things, as they are not that important…………..well except the lawn damage. I have a little chunk of plaster missing from a wall due to a small accident he had with the weights during a workout …………………… but during his boys back garden BBQ gathering, a patch on my lawn has been used as a toilet! Because you know how difficult it is to walk from a garden to a toilet (when you have 4 to choose from) when you are 20 years of age. So now my pride and joy……….my lovely green and striped lawn is complete with a couple of circles of dead yellow grass. 😂 But it will grow back and I’m not going to sweat the small stuff, I don’t do that anymore!

I’m trying to convince myself it’s not that noticeable, and to the majority it probably isn’t. 😂

Other than that I’m just trying to avoid all things general election. I’m not affiliated to any political party but will cast my vote as I think it’s important that you do. I read the news so I will just choose who I think will be the best person going forward and I’ll probably not decide until a minute before I vote. I haven’t got the time in my life to listen to a group of people having a live argument and slanging match on TV for one hour and taking up valuable airtime night after night until 4th July. Honestly, it’s like standing out in the Key Stage One playground at work for an hour. And you just never know who to believe. Anyway, off my soapbox and onto my little trip to Paris.

No offence meant to any honest politicians out there as I’m sure there are some.

It was a trip with a bit of a difference……………I’d gone to run the Paris marathon so I don’t know if that skewed my perception of it a little, but here I am, still in one piece, to tell you about Paris. I’ll do a separate post on the Marathon as I’m still processing my thoughts on that, and what I felt about Paris and what I felt about the marathon are at bit of a juxtaposition.

Eiffel Tower

I arrived on the Wednesday after Easter Sunday, mid-afternoon and had three full days to spend in Paris before the Marathon and my return on Sunday.

However, going as a tourist and going as a marathon runner do not sit well together, as I now realise. I did see a lot of the city but tried to limit my walking miles and use the metro as the objectives of those three full days were to acclimatise, sleep a lot, feed well and mentally prepare myself.

Arc de Triomphe

Being in a city as big and vibrant as Paris made that quite difficult, certainly the sleeping, resting and mental preparation. Paris is not the place to do that!

I might be in the minority of people when I say I probably would not return to the city. It was ok, but for me there are much nicer cities. I’m not a fan of the huge cities, I prefer smaller ones. I found it overpriced, overated and far too chaotic and busy for my liking…………but like I say, that might be because I was trying to get myself into a place of calm and focus and I found that hard here. It’s just my opinion, and millions of people love it, so don’t let me put you off, I just don’t think I was in the right frame of mind to enjoy it properly. It’s still definitely worth a visit.

The Louvre by night

There were, however, elements that I loved………….I didn’t dislike it all so here goes………..my whistle stop tour and opinion of Paris.

First of all, getting from the airport to the city…………cheapest and most efficient way I found was the RER B rail line which runs right from the airport to the city centre and links with the metro. It’s a 30 to 40 minute journey and will set you back 11 euros. More expensive than the transfers in other cities like Madrid for instance but lots cheaper and quicker than a taxi which would no doubt get stuck in the traffic and will cost you at least 4 to 5 times the price. The inner city metro in Paris is very similar to that in London, it’s a cost effective way of getting around the central city, but like London it’s very overcrowded, extremely old and is filthy dirty………….I hated it but it served it’s purpose.

Paris Street

In terms of accommodation I absolutely loved where I stayed. I’m always looking for that bit of peace and quiet in the middle of the throng of the city and I found it……..my little oasis. I did not want to be in the middle of the hustle and bustle and noise. In the middle of the River Seine there are two natural islands. One of them, the Ile de la Cite is quite large and contains the Notre Dame Cathedral so that one is quite busy. However, next to it, over a bridge, is the much smaller and very cosmopolitan Ile Saint-Louis.

Isle Saint-Louis street

It is so quaint, quiet and pretty. Full of gorgeous old architecture, nice cafes, restaurants, independent shops, a pretty park, small boutique hotels and best of all………with hardly any cars or traffic. It is like a little haven in the middle of the city.

Nice restaurants
The Barbers
Flower shop

I loved it on the island and I particularly liked the hotel I stayed in which was Hotel Saint-Louis L’Isle. It was a nice small hotel but the rooms were so lovely, spacious, spotlessly clean and the bed was so comfy. There were the usual tea and coffee facilities in the room and lots of lovely toiletries. It had a lovely 24 hour reception staffed by really helpful and friendly staff. The only minor improvement would have been the addition of a bathrobe and slippers as I do like to lounge around in a fluffy bathrobe and slippers on a night 😂 (doesn’t everyone, or is it just me!?), particularly as I was trying to get into my calm and relaxed pre-race state. But it’s a minor thing and I’d definitely recommend the hotel.

View from the room in the 4th Arrondissement

The hotel offers breakfast but not dinner. It’s quite cost effective to have breakfast and they serve a really good continental breakfast in a basement breakfast room. Each table has a huge dish of pastries and the self service buffet offers eggs, meats, cheeses, cereals, yoghurts, cakes, fruit juices and a selection of tea and coffee. It was a really good arrangement and good value for money as Paris is not like Spain and Italy where you can nip in a café and get your breakfast for less than 5 euros. I don’t think I bought one cup of coffee alone that cost less than 5 euros in Paris.

Very nice breakfast room…………
……..with a delicious selection of pastries and breads on each table!

The island is full of lovely restaurants, and fortunately there are all sorts of different nationalities of food available. I’ll tell you more about restaurants when I tell you about my marathon as unusually I was not that adventurous and stuck to Italian as decent portion sizes and carbs were my priorities. I love French food and I love seafood, but neither would have fulfilled the objective and would have been a bit of a risky strategy. So unusually, this post is not going to be my usual foodie post telling you all about the local food.

The island by night

It was also slightly different to my usual trips in that I spent 4 and a half days in total in Paris and not a drop of alcohol passed my lips! 😂 I absolutely love a drink or two when on holiday and 4 days of questionable quality coffee and carbonated water took it’s toll, I was quite tetchy by day 4!

Wednesday night consisted of a very good pizza in a restaurant on the island followed by an early night in my very comfy bed.

Pizza………….I get ten out of ten for carb loading……………I’m fantastic at it! 😆 So much better than I am at running.

Thursday I had planned to do some sight seeing as I was still 3 days away from the race. The one place I definitely wanted to go was the Louvre art gallery so I booked a ticket and walked there as it was just off the island and a little to the left. Now this was the day that it rained so hard all morning, so a good day to visit an art gallery, but I got soaked on the way there. What did I think to the Louvre? A bit of a mixed bag really.

The Louvre in the pouring rain!

Building wise it’s impressive, the iconic glass pyramid is striking both from the outside and the inside. You definitely need an advance ticket or you would spend most of your day in a queue, the line is enormous. You also need an audio guide, although the quality of the audio tours when compared to that of the Prado in Madrid are poor. The directions around the museum aren’t that easy to follow, the console is not as user friendly and the GPS jumps around.

‘The Winged Victory of Samothrace’ – one of the Louvre’s most famous pieces.

In terms of artwork there’s some good stuff, but again, nothing that gave me goosebumps and there are far better pieces in the galleries of Barcelona, Madrid, Rome, Florence and London. The Mona Lisa is disappointing, well it was to me. It was much smaller than I expected and there is nothing particularly unique in that painting that you cannot find in many more.

Pretty Ceilings
Impressive six pack and torso!

However, there are some lovely frescoed ceilings and some gorgeous sculpture in there. I’d always choose sculpture over a painting and I can walk around and look at a sculpture for ages. Some of them I find just breath-taking…………I still can’t comprehend the skill it takes to take a solid piece of white marble and end up with such a perfect, reconstruction of the human form, including the muscular profile, veins and proportion. But what astounds me even more is the sculptors ability to portray emotion in the face. Take for instance probably my favourite piece in there, ‘Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss’ by Canova. It has to be one of his best works and depicts the mythological duo engaged in a loving gaze. How do you sculpt a loving gaze!?!? I’ve no idea but Canova a has done it perfectly, somehow making a solid form fluid and human.

Canova’s very beautiful ‘Psyche Revived by Cupid’s Kiss’

The light filled Grande Galerie is also quite impressive and leads to another one of my favourites ‘The Sleeping Hermaphrodite’ by Bernini. He is my favourite sculptor and the genius behind ‘The Rape of Proserpina’ in the Borghese Gallery in Rome, which if you like Italian sculpture is an absolute must see.

Light filled Grande Galerie
Bernini’s Sleeping Hermaphrodite

So there are a few good exhibits in the Louvre and it’s definitely worth going, but I do think it is overrated, is not as good as the galleries in other major cities, and in terms of it’s organisation, it was far too busy and chaotic for my liking.

All the seaons in one day – leaving the Louvre in the sunshine.

The afternoon was spent doing marathon things. I had to travel to the outskirts of the city to collect my race bib, register and have a look around the Run Experience Exhibition. It was open Thursday through to Saturday, but attracting around 60,000 runners I wanted to get it out of the way on Thursday when it wasn’t too busy as mentally, I was starting to panic about the whole thing, and just wanted to collect it and then try to forget about it for a few days.

There’s no going back!

The evening was spent in a lovely little Italian for some pasta, and then a wander over the bridges of the island to look at the Seine all lit up at night.

River Seine in the evening light
That’s my apprehensive look……….I’ve just had a little meltdown because I’m tired and I’m starting to get really anxious as the reality of what I’ve signed up for is starting to hit home.

Friday morning I got up and I just could not face sightseeing. To be quite honest I was in a bit of a state. I cried into my croissants, and filled with self doubt, my marathon demons were getting the better of me. “Snap out of it”, I told myself! I’m normally quite upbeat………I just needed peace, quiet and calm to get my balance back. So where did I go………………..the cemetery!! Yes, I spent half a day in a graveyard!😂 If there is one place you can guarantee peace, calm and serenity it’s in a graveyard. Paris has a huge one called Pere Lachaise. It spans 110 acres and is full of green trees, maze like paths and birdsong. It houses a rich ecosystem which includes includes cyclamen and orchids. According to Wikipedia the cemetery also hosts a population of foxes and 100 species of birds, including flycatchers and owls. It’s a really nice space and is the chosen resting place of more than 1 million people.

Peace and quiet of the cemetery Pere Lachaise
A little bit of calm away from the chaos
Thank goodness – I’ve found the man on the horse……..no trip to mainland Europe would be complete without a man on a horse! 😆

I downloaded a map and went on a bit of a grave hunt………………….a bit like a treasure hunt but for dead people. 😆 It’s most famous residents are Edith Piaf, Georges Bizet, Frederic Chopin, Marcel Proust, Oscar Wilde, Olivia de Havilland, Sarah Bernhardt, Jim Morrison and Sir Richard Wallace, along with a memorial to Maria Callas, whose remains were there before they were stolen, recovered, and scattered in the Aegean Sea off Greece. It was a really interesting and peaceful morning and I would definitely recommend a visit there if you fancy a quiet, interesting stroll away from the chaos. I was in a much better frame of mind afterwards.

On the way back I walked through an area of Paris called Le Marais. There you will find pretty streets, lots of independent boutique shops, the Jewish quarter and an ice cream shop! Just like a small child……an ice cream always makes me feel better! Outside the ice cream shop is the very lovely Place des Voges where Victor Hugo once lived. It’s a very lovely green, grassed square, with chestnut trees in the middle, a perfect ice cream eating spot. 😋

Place des Voges
Pistachio, chocolate and a chocolate macaron for good measure! 😍

I then had a little job to do for the architect student of the family. That was to go to the Pompidou Centre and get some photographs. It houses a centre for art and culture but I was just tasked with getting pictures of the outside. It is a quirky building designed by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and is one of the iconic architectural masterpieces of the 19th century. It is instantly recognisable for its unusual design, in that a large part of its infrastructure, such as the lifts and utilities, are on the outside of the building. There are four primary colour coded colours visible on the exterior: blue for air flows, yellow for electricity, green for water circuits and red for pedestrian flow (escalators and lifts). Anyway, pictures duly taken and sent by WhatsApp, my mission was accomplished.

Centre Pompidou

Most people when they visit Paris go up the Eiffel Tower, but not me! Being scared of heights I went for a little look but decided this was a definite ‘NO’! I could see it just fine from the ground! I would be running past it on the Sunday, and whizzing almost 300 metres up a man made Meccano set in a glass lift, and having to part with £50 to do it, is not my idea of fun! It would have been a complete waste of time, similar to the time I paid to go in the cable car in Barcelona and spent 10 minutes laid on the floor in the bottom of the cabin until I was ejected at the top gasping for breath.😂I have some lovely pictures of what it would be like and you’ll have to make do with those. The Arc de Triomphe and Champs Elysees are also very much worth a visit.

What it would have looked like if I’d gone up!
That river might be a shade dirtier than the Thames!

If you want to visit when it’s a bit quieter, night time is also good as they look wonderful lit up with laser lights emitting from the top.

The Eiffel Tower by night
Arc de Triomphe by night

Friday night involved more pasta and another alcohol free early night. Like I say, not my usual holiday night out!

Lovely Italian restaurant on the island
Really good Carbonara!

Saturday was a gloriously sunny 24°C day and I’d promised myself I was not leaving the islands and was having a very easy day. I had a quick early morning walk over to the other island before it got too busy to look at Notre Dame Cathedral. It is huge, but sadly closed at the moment following the fire a few years ago. Renovation looks behind schedule and it does not look like opening is imminent. There is a nice viewing platform and lots of information boards to read about the renovation.

Time to watch the world go by today!
All there is to see of Notre Dame at the moment.

The remainder of the day I spent on Ile Saint-Louis. I wandered around the little shops. There was a pretty flower shop, the most inviting and colourful fruit and veg shop where I bought some home made fig roll biscuits, a delightful little sweet shop and the smelliest cheese shop. I love a cheese shop, the smellier the better. Top prize though went to the antique puppet shop, a very eccentric shop with some of the wierdest wooden puppets I have ever seen. Some of them were really old and some of them were really creepy. The shop appeared to be manned by a real life Geppetto…………it was honestly like walking into Carlo Collodi’s Pinocchio but in real life………….I was mesmerised!

The strangest shop! 😆
Very expensive sweets!

I had a couple of little coffee stops and watched the world go by and made my way to the park at the end of the island where I had a couple of hours chilling with my book, a little cat nap and ate my fig rolls.

Perfect park for book reading on the island

The final carb load followed, with yet more pasta, and before I knew it my sightseeing time in Paris had come to an end. Just time to organise my little piles for the following morning: running kit; measured out piles of race nutrition, race bib, emergency pain killers; first aid; post race bag and warm dry clothes. Just 12 hours remained which was plenty of time for me to have a restless night and a pre race meltdown! 😂

More pasta!
Food of Champions…………….Jelly Babies, Porridge and Pain Killers! 😂

So that’s my whistle stop tour of Paris. I’m sure there is so much more to do and see but the remainder of my time was given up to the primary purpose of the visit which was the marathon, which I’ll tell you about another time. Like I say, Paris is probably better than my experience portrays it, but marathon running and sightseeing don’t go together, both physically or mentally. So my advice would be, if you want to see Paris properly and enjoy it, don’t run the marathon, just stick to crepes, croissants and Cabernet Sauvignon! 😝

Toledo

You know what they say don’t you…………………”better late than never!” I’ve only been back three and a half months but I did promise to tell you what I thought of my day trip to Toledo.😆 Then I’ll tell you about Paris and the marathon, and then I’ll have another trip to Spain to tell you about as I’m going on Friday for 9 days because I’m off work for a week. I have some exploring to do, and I need a little break, because summer term is oh so very busy in a school, and a little rest will just nicely revive me ready for the final push to the big summer holidays, when I shall depart the UK for a whole lot longer!

Ancient City of Toledo

But first a little bit about this week’s diary. To say it’s been a sad week would be an understatement. I have time to tell you about Toledo because I’m having a very quiet, calm weekend in hiding because I need one. One where I can spontaneously cry when I want to and it really does not matter! You see the thing is, on Friday, 2 days ago, I lost a friend, a bestie who was very dear to me and I am absolutely heartbroken beyond words. She was one of my wing men from the ‘A’ team on my wedding photo, mum of Spencer the dog from my previous post and just generally a beautiful, courageous, kind, amazing lady the same age as myself. We knew this was imminent, hence my visit a couple of weeks ago, when she made the very brave decision to cease her treatment after over a decade of battling MND/ALS and also, for the past 18 months, cancer.

Home – One of my thoughtful, happy places from this weekend – The Windmills

But even though you know it’s going to happen it’s tough all the same when you lose someone, and even tougher if you don’t know it’s going to happen. You feel for her family and you also feel that very strange sense of loss, bewilderment, loneliness, and overwhelming sadness yourself. So this weekend I have been in quiet spaces, doing positive things which makes me smile and seen only a couple of people who surround me with love and hugs. And for anyone that’s grieving that is important, to give yourself time to process the thoughts, to have a good cry, to be angry, to be sad, but also to be thankful. Because there were fantastic times too, before all this……….holidays to Greece together, having our children close together, lots of parties, lots of laughs, lots of love and lots of memories which no-one can take away.

So on Friday, the day it happened, all I wanted to do was be alone and cry, and it’s important to do that and let it all out. I’m unable to suppress my emotions so it does all have to come out. Shares in Kleenex tissues will have rocketed this weekend as I’ve got through boxes of them.😆 So I made a picnic for my dinner and and I went alone, up to one of my favourite spots 5 minutes away, the windmills, to watch the sunset, cry and reflect. There was only me there, hundreds of skylarks, complete silence apart from the birds, and it was lovely in a strange sort of way. I felt at peace with the world.

On Saturday I surrounded myself with my garden and flowers. An early morning coffee in the sunshine under my wisteria, which always makes me smile.

❤️ My wisteria

Then I planted my planters for summer, assembled my hanging basket and made stripes on my grass because that always cheers me up. 😂 But why do they make those environmentally friendly slug pellets bright blue? Aesthetically it really does mess with my head, I’d like dark brown pellets please.

Planter with non colour co-ordinated slug pellets!
This year’s hanging basket.
A couple of new ‘cheer me up’ perennials!
Stripes 😍

Then I went to visit my Dad and that always cheers me up because being a true Yorkshireman he’s so funny. Always in his blue overall bottoms, when you ask him what he’s doing his response is always…..”Oh, I’m just pottering, getting out of your mother’s way!” 😆 Well on Saturday, he had a list of pottering jobs that Mum had given him but I caught him having a sneaky little nap on his deckchair in his garden! Well, when you are 85 you need regular breaks! Now, I’m daddy’s girl, like two peas in a pod and it became apparent to me on Saturday where my obsession with lawn stripes comes from, this is the man who has taught me everything I know about lawncare!😂I think his stripes might be straighter than mine and that actually looks like a little criss-cross pattern he’s been experimenting with. That’s one for me to try next week!

Doing his ‘pottering’ jobs! 😂

Then today I’ve ventured down the road for a lovely coffee and brunch, and a another little cry, with another lovely girlfriend. And then I’ve had a few hours of peace, quiet and calm this afternoon so I thought I’d try and recall a bit about Toledo, because memories of travels always cheer me up. That’s what life’s all about, not the material things but about making memories.

Out for brunch!
Fabulous coffee at Holme Coffee House, Holmfirth,

So, Toledo……………..very easy and cheap to get to on the high speed train……………36 minutes from Madrid Puerta de Atocha-Almudena Grandes station, which is walkable from the City Centre (so no metro mishaps 😂). Toledo has a nice little station, very Arabic in style with swaying palm trees outside. If you did not know you were in a Spanish station you could be mistaken for thinking you were in Morocco.

Off on an adventure!
The Moorish style station of Toledo
The Moorish theme continues inside the station

From the station it’s an easy 15 minute walk, uphill, across the Alcantara bridge which spans the Tagus river, and through the gate in the old city walls.

Gate in the city walls at the end of the the Alcantara Bridge

Its quite a majestic looking city from the other side of the river, as it sits up high on top of the hill. You have to remember it was February when I was there so I am wrapped up like a snowman as it was cold, even by British standards!

Cold!

Toledo is a UNESCO world heritage site and is often known as the ‘City of 3 Cultures’ – those being Christian, Muslim and Jewish. If you like history there is lots for you as it’s a City that everyone has had a turn at ruling!

Old cobbled streets of Toledo

You will keep walking uphill once you pass through the city walls and eventually come to a smaller Moorish style arch, in front of which stands a statue of Miguel de Cervantes clutching his book. If you don’t know who he is, he’s an Early Modern Spanish writer, author of Don Quixote and whom many regard as the greatest writer in the Spanish language. I’ve never read the book myself so I can’t give you my opinion on whether that is a worthy claim, it’s subjective I guess, like all these book and film reviews are. I’m the only one in our house who thought the recent Amy Winehouse film ‘Back to Black’ was fantastic, and yes I did cry, what a poor tortured soul she was. But I have yet to stay awake though a screening of any of the Star Wars films. 😂 I don’t really do far fetched make believe, but my two at 21 and 23 years old can still watch them over and over again.

Miguel de Cervantes

Anyway, have yourself a selfie with Miguel, and keep going uphill through the archway and you emerge in the Plaza Major. It’s quite a plain, more modern square, but pleasant, so I sat for a while and had my breakfast and a coffee.

Plaza Major

Even as I’m writing this I can’t tell you whether I preferred Segovia or Toledo if you only have time to visit one of them. Neither compare to Salamanca, which I preferred to both. Segovia has the Aqueduct and Alcazar, is much more compact, better from a foodie perspective, and has a friendlier feel to it. Toledo has a much better cathedral, that’s the star of the show in Toledo for me. Overall, I would say the buildings are nicer to look at than in Segovia, as is its setting on the river. It’s also easier to get to from central Madrid. But once you get there it’s much more spread out and does not have as friendly a feel as Segovia. So take your pick, it depends what you are going for because they are neck and neck equal for me.

Cathedral Spire

I thought I’d wander through the streets for a while to look at some of the buildings and walk towards the Manchego cheese museum, yes………they have a museum for cheese………….and I love cheese, including Manchego. It has over one thousand five star reviews on Tripadvisor………………..so imagine my disappointment when I got there and it was closed for a holiday! It sounds fantastic though so I would say go, they do pairings with wine and it sounded just like my sort of thing.

Oh no……..the cheese museum is closed!

I saw some lovely buildings whilst wandering around. Because Toledo is built on a hill, some of the streets are a bit undulating but I kept getting a glimpse of the very imposing cathedral spire down the alleyways.

Narrow alleyways leading to the Cathedral

Most of the buildings are of a golden stone, similar to Salamanca, and if you look at the carving on them the Muslim influence becomes clear with lots of intricate Moorish designs.

Narrow streets and tall golden buildings of Moorish design

I was, however, still sulking about the closed cheese museum, so seeing as a bit of blue sky had made an appearance, before I went anywhere, I thought I’d cheer myself up with an ice cream.😆There’s an ice cream shop with a few outlets called Martonela and it’s good. Pistachio, Turron, with a wafer, chopped nuts and chocolate sauce put the smile back on my face and any cheese museum disappointment was soon overcome.

😍😍😍😍

Onwards I marched, to the cathedral. This is the must visit whilst in Toledo – Saint Mary of Toledo is its official name. I think out of the four cities I visited on this trip to Spain, this was by far and away the best cathedral. It’s not quite up there with Burgos or Seville in my opinion, but I do think it has the edge over Salamanca cathedral, just because of its ostentatious bling inside! It’s bordering on being over the top, there’s just so much of it.

From the exterior it is absolutely beautiful. It’s really imposing and the bell tower and spire is really pretty. It also has a really ornate door covered in Camino shells.

Cathedral exterior
Shells of the Order of Santiago on the door
Tall ornate barrel vaulted ceilings

Then you go inside and it is just a WOW moment. It has it all. Huge barrel vaulted ceilings; lots of gold; beautiful stained glass windows; possibly the most ornate choir stalls I have seen anywhere; carved red marble columns; the most amazing white marble and gold altarpiece.

Marble and gold altarpiece
An obscene amount of gold!
Red marble
Choir stalls

It also has a beautifully frescoed ceiling, not on the same level as the Sistine Chapel but very beautiful all the same. The highlight for me was an altarpiece called El Transparente. It has a painted cupola with a window at the back which lets the shafts of light shine through and illuminate it, giving it a ‘heaven’ like appearance. Then around the perimeter are various carved figures which look like they are peering down at you from heaven. It it very ethereal.

El Transparente
Ceiling fresco

There is also lots of very valuable artwork. Perhaps the greatest piece in there is by El Greco entitled ‘The Disrobing of Christ’. Not really my thing but if you are into religious art there are some must sees in here.

El Greco’s ‘The Disrobing of Christ’

Toledo’s cathedral also has a very pretty cloister which should not be missed as it is really well tended. One corner of the cloister is also where they store Los Gigantes when not in use. These are giant figures on wheels that they parade through the streets as part of their festivals in Spain. So you can have a close up look at these. Some of them are downright creepy, and I think as a child I would have been absolutely terrified of them. I think it’s the eyes.

Cloisters
Los Gigantes
Cloister Garden

I’d seen the Muslim and Christian influences, time then for a little wander through the Jewish Quarter to the other side of town. This was a really pretty area with a number of synagogues and I ended up, after a long walk, at the other side of town at another gate in the city walls. This one is the Puerta del Cambron , previously called the Gate of the Jews. Just to the side of here you can get a good view from the top of the city walls down the River Tagus, very picturesque.

Jewish Quarter
View over the Jewish Quarter
Puerta del Cambron
View from the city walls over the River Tagus

There are some lovely gardens and in general this is a much calmer, more peaceful part of town if you need a little sit down and a break. It just so happened that when I arrived for my sit down it coincided with the arrival of Toledo’s answer to a boy band! 😂 So there was an opportunity for a little sing and dance along …………….. very entertaining.

Toledo’s answer to ‘One Direction’!😂

What else is Toledo famous for…………………..ah yes……………marzipan! But I mean proper marzipan, not the bright yellow stuff you buy in the supermarket in the UK, over processed with preservatives and almond essence. This is the authentic marzipan made quite simply with eggs, ground almonds and icing sugar, toasted brown on the top. Obviously, because it’s not full of flavourings and preservatives it does not have a long shelf life so you might have to eat it before you come home, which I did not find a problem. 😂

Marzipan
More marzipan!

The most delicious looking marzipan was in a marzipan shop called Santo Tome, so I bought a small box from there, all nicely wrapped in pink paper and a ribbon. The marzipan comes in all different shapes, and some even have almond nuts and pine nuts on the top. For certain festivals and at Christmas they also make marzipan snakes and eels, which were on display, all curled up in their box with candied fruit adornments and intricately decorated with marzipan. I thought eating a full snake prior to departure back to the UK might be a bit greedy though, so I just settled for my small box!

My marzipan 😍
I was tempted, but the consume by date was just too imminent for one person!😂

Just one more place left to visit before my return to Madrid………………..the Alcazar. However, if you are hoping for it to be like Segovia Alcazar you’ll be disappointed. It’s imposing from the outside and visible for miles around…………………it is the huge four towered quadrangle you can see atop the hill as you approach Toledo. However, it is not fully accessible to the public and not maintained as an Alacazar museum. It mainly houses the army and military museum, which isn’t really my area of interest. But it is also home to the public library on the very top floor. In my guidebook it said that entrance to the library was free to anyone, and that there was a library café which had the most amazing views of the whole city. So off I trotted up the many steps (there is an elevator too) for my little caffeine fix and a lovely view. And the guidebook wasn’t wrong, the view over the city in all directions is amazing, worth the climb to the top floor for a coffee and a peek.

Alcazar exterior
City views – the climb is worth it!
……………………….and the other direction.

So that’s your whistle stop tour of Toledo. Glad I made the effort to come, for the cathedral, marzipan, ice cream and my moment of glory in the boy band………………………it was worth it. It is well deserving of a day trip from Madrid!

So next up, when I return from Spain, will be my verdict on Paris and marathons, I will make an effort not to leave it three and a half months like this one!

Be Quiet!!!

Oh, how many times have I wanted to say that. 🤭

Today there aren’t too many words in my blog………………..but there are lots of pictures. Because yesterday I went on the most amazing walk, a bit of training for summer trekking with the orange rucksack. And this walk was just too amazing not to share, you must do it if ever you are near here in the Springtime. Northern England at it’s finest! But why did I go on my walk………………because I wanted to scream the above!

Departure point……………the village of Longnor

If there are two groups of people that can drain the living daylights out of me they are ‘gobby’ extraverts and negative people. I like to give both a wide berth. But sometimes you can’t escape them and the result for a positive, quiet, happy little person like me is the need for a day like this. ‘Gobby’ by the way, is northern English dialect for someone who likes the sound of their own voice and talks too much!

You just can’t beat a a pint in a British country pub!
It’s just a shame I’ve arrived 116 years after last orders 😂

And why did I want to scream the above!? Because I’m an introvert! Possibly one of the most misunderstood group of people there are………………….if you don’t know what one is then you need to read this book.

The book by Susan Cain is called ‘Quiet’, it’s an amazing book I read years ago ……………………. basically it explains me…………….. if you were ever wondering what makes me tick or you think I’m a bit odd, read it. It only took me around 45 years to work myself out and realise it was just cool, fine and ok to be like me.

If you are an extrovert and have any introverts in your life please read it. Because you may just understand them better…………….they are not sad, they are not depressed, they’ve not fallen out with you……………they just want you to get out of their face and shut up for a while because you might just be ‘doing their head in’! Be quiet!

What you might find as an introvert is that throughout all your professional life……………mine was in banking……………you are surrounded by extroverts who recognise your intelligence (introverts are often highly intelligent), put you on a leadership and management programme, and then spend all their time trying to make you an extrovert! It won’t work however, it’s a bit like square peg and round hole……….if you are an introvert, you are an introvert. They are still trying to force me in that round hole now and have not yet realised that it’s just not going to work! 😆

Off on an adventure!
Aiming for the top of the pointy hill

Can an introvert be a leader? …………………….Yes! A large proportion of leaders are extroverts. Why, well just because they talk a lot really. Even Harvard have now recognised the power of the introvert. There have been many amazing introvert leaders: Albert Einstein, Bill Gates, Mark Zuckerberg, Isaac Newton, Ghandi, Chopin, Barrack Obama. Why do they make great leaders………………………they listen instead of talk!

Forget-me-nots
Celandines

How do you know if you are an introvert and not just odd. 😂 Well, you are likely to do all these things (I do them all in abundance, there is no doubt whatsoever that I’m 110% introvert if that’s possible):

  • I prefer one to one conversations
  • I’m more likely, and I prefer, to express my inner most feelings in writing
  • I crave solitude
  • I hate gossip and chit chat but will spend hours in an in depth conversation with someone about things that matter to me: books, nature, art, music etc.
  • I celebrate things on a small scale………………NEVER throw me a surprise party, I’d hate it! I have a close knit circle of amazing friends
  • I’m the world’s greatest listener and am extremely softly spoken, kind and compassionate
  • I’m not into wealth, fame or status………………I just like love, hugs, animals, cake, books, wine, and chocolate (in any order) 😆
  • I dislike conflict in every walk of life………..I don’t hate anyone, if you not my type or you’ve upset me I just walk away, I don’t waste my time fighting
  • I get engrossed in what I’m doing……….focus and dedication is my middle name
  • I’m ultra sensitive – I feel everything on an emotional level, I have empathy overload! I’m usually to be found either crying or laughing!
  • I love a night out and a party, so long as I’m not the centre of attention, and I really enjoy myself, but afterwards I need a day like today to recover from people, noise and extrovert overload
  • I can spend 10 minutes in the company of someone and that’s all I need to know them better than they know themselves! I see through everything………..my boys hate this…………….you can’t lie to Mum!
Northern England
Meadow Cardamine – Cuckoo Flower

So if you do just some of those things you might not be as odd as some people think you are. 😂 You might just be an introvert. But chill because that’s just fine. You can still be a leader if you want to be, you can still be brave too. Introverts are more likely to be brave………….bravery comes from self confidence and facing fears………..nothing else. An introvert will have to draw on their self-confidence and face fears every day in a predominantly extrovert world. An extrovert however is often gobby and talkative because of the need to be heard and a lack of self confidence and bravery.

Northern England’s yellow arrow……..a nice and direct ‘Path Here’😂
Tinkling stream

So here you go…….photos above and below (in order of walking)…………..the High Wheeldon, Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill circular. 14km and 700m of ascent just to prove that Northern England is truly gorgeous in the Springtime. But don’t tell too many people……………….let them all go South to London and leave this little corner for introverts like me.

Is it a tardis? Is it a telephone box?……………..
…….no, neither, it’s quite possibly the coolest village fundraising shop with honesty box…………..would you like a china mug, cut glass glasses, cuddly toy, book, DVD or a 500 piece jigsaw?!? 😂

There were lambs, flowers in abundance, cows, beer, cake, Yorkshire tea, roast beef sandwiches from home, a book in my rucksack, mud, blue sky, green fields, views, tinkling steams, clouds…………………………………an absolute introvert’s paradise!!!

Number 43 and family
This would make a lovely project for the creative introvert like me! 😍

This introvert has batteries fully recharged and is ready for this next week’s onslaught of ‘noise’ and extroverts! Enjoy the photos!

Hill number 1 – High Wheeldon……..and high it was!
An Early Purple Orchid
Hills 2 and 3 – Parkhouse Hill and Chrome Hill – They are both Limestone Reef Knolls, hence the shape.
That look you get when you disturb someone’s peace ……. clattering through the field with an orange rucksack!
Oh yes! Bring it on……..a bit of steep and slippery……this is becoming a good day out!
It becomes clear why it’s known locally as the ‘Sleeping Dragon’
Made it to the top…….time for beef sandwiches!
On the top of Parkhouse Hill with Chrome Hill in the distance, sleeping dragon number 2
Cuteness overload ……….. one word ……….ears!
This has seen better days!
I liked this tree!
When the local Methodist Chapel diversifies………..a welcome sight!
What’s not to like……….beautiful moist fruit cake on a china plate with a proper mug of Yorkshire tea………well done Hollingsclough Chapel……..spot on that was
This way to the end
Cow Parsley
Oh yes………..every end of walk needs a pub……..and this one is superb……..Pack Horse at Crowdecote
My dinner was washed down nicely with a ‘Ruby Mist’ – a proper ‘northern’ beer with a proper creamy head just how it should be! Cheers to introverts!

Paris Marathon – The first and definitely the last marathon!

It’s taken so long to process this and write my thoughts on it. One reason being it takes a few weeks for everything to settle, to return back to normal routine and to actually work out what you thought to it. The second reason is I’ve been busy having a new bathroom and working in my other role as glorified, unpaid personal assistant, also known as ‘Mum’. Because everyone turns to the organised, reliable family member (me😁) when they need something doing and want it doing properly.

Next week I’ll just have time to tell you about Asturias, and after that you might have to wait for the Picos de Europa update until September because I’ve run out of time and I’m having my usual two month hiatus from writing because I have lots of summer exploring planned and I don’t like to take my laptop or tablet, and don’t think I’ll have time to write. If I’m quiet and don’t have time to post, worry not, just like Arnie “I’ll be back”, hopefully with tales of some adventures.

The eldest – With his T-shirt covered in climbing chalk as usual and giving me his undivided attention because he’s not seen me for two months! 🤣🤣

So in ‘other news’, this week I have the eldest child back. There was me thinking he’d returned because he was missing me only to learn that he just needed a full time personal assistant for the week, one that he didn’t have to pay, fed him, did his washing and acted as taxi. 😂 It only took him 10 minutes to blurt out that he was going travelling and needed someone to help him plan his trip to Peru and Bolivia! He has two months to travel post University before he starts work so he’s going to explore a little more of South America.

Who is he going with…………………..just himself! He’s been to Ecuador with a group of friends before, fell in love with South America and is eager to return. Myself and his Dad are fine with it, but Grandma (my Mum) is mortified! And apparently, according to her, like most things, it’s dangerous and it’s all my fault for taking him travelling from being tiny to places like the Arctic Circle. 😂 But for me travelling is the best way to teach them and expand the mind. I’ve taken them both to all sorts of places. You can teach them history in a classroom I know, but I will never forget their little faces when I stood them in Tyne Cot cemetery to show them the reality of what war looks like, the true cost. So here I am, assisting in the planning of a trip to Peru and Bolivia, secretly proud that I have brought up a fellow explorer that is confident enough to embark on such a solo trip and has such a thirst for knowledge of other countries and cultures like his Mum, and secretly a little bit jealous because I want to go too!!!😂😂

Here he is age 14 – contemplating the sight before him in ‘Tyne Cot’ Cemetery in Belgium

In other news…………….I’ve had a new bathroom, so that’s taken a little of my time up. I’ve lived in the same house for over 20 years and never had a new bathroom. It was looking really dated and was falling apart. I got fed up of fixing the shower door which kept dropping off and what with the loss of friends recently I thought life is too short and you can’t take it with you, so have your new bathroom! So now, if I’m not busy doing anything else, I’m in my shower fiddling with my shiny knobs and lights. I love it! 😍😍 I’ve never been so clean!

I’ve also been doing my usual running which this week has included a 10k PB at just over 50 minutes which I’m quite pleased with at 53 years of age; a trophy for the Boundary Relay Race 1st place V50 Ladies team; and a silver medal for being the second placed ladies team at another race. So quite a good week for running, and therefore an appropriate time to tell you what I thought about marathon running!

Right then, the Paris Marathon. Am I glad I did it?……………….A resounding YES!

Would I do another?…………………ABSOLUTELY NOT……NO WAY! It’s not for me!

Feeling proud on the homebound flight that night…….if not a little tired!

Everyone said “Oh you’ll get the marathon bug and be entering another”, but honestly, there is no way I would do it again.

The main reason is it just takes over your life. If I’m doing something I’m doing it properly and committing, I’m not the sort of person who can do anything half heartedly. So as soon as I signed up for it I took it seriously. But the only thing I can liken it to is having a baby. It’s nine months of nurturing and preparation, a good few hours of extreme pain and pushing yourself to the limit, then at the end out pops the medal and t-shirt! 😂

Minutes after ……… looking and feeling so very very rough, ill and nauseous with pain! 🤢

If you are hell bent on doing one, definitely do one in the Autumn. It’s five nights a week of training and doing that through the Spring and Summer has to be better than Autumn and Winter. I wouldn’t do another simply because of that. I have lots of hobbies, interests and friends, and having to put those on hold for months made me realise how important they all are, and I’m not willing to make that sacrifice again.

I did it in the first place as a personal challenge…….one of those bucket list items when you get older, when there’s that little niggle in the back of your mind which keeps saying “I wonder if I could?”.

That’s my focussed look!

I chose Paris simply because I hadn’t been there before, it’s quite close, fitted with the school holidays, I don’t really like London, and it’s easy to get into Paris marathon…..there’s no ballot.

Can anyone run a marathon? ………………………I believe so yes, as long as they have no underlying medical conditions which means they can’t. I now realise that a marathon is only 30% physical………..70% is about mental strength and resilience. And this is the race that very nearly broke me in that respect! 😂

So first thing………….training! What a complete bore! I just run to enjoy. I bumble about, don’t care how fast or slow, and eat cake! I have only one speed really, and smile while I’m running. But forget that if you are training for a marathon. People start throwing words at you like form, strides, fartleks, intervals, splits, core training, nutrition…………….WHAT?!?! So, armed with a training plan, which I googled and found on ‘Runners World’, the first task was to find out what all these foreign words were and mix up my training plan. So Monday was interval training and speedwork (my worst day as I don’t have a ‘fast’ speed), Tuesday just a steady 10k, Wednesday was core training, Thursday was my favourite steady trot around the block, Friday was 5k or 10k as fast as I could (another horrid day), Saturday was rest day (my favourite day 😆) and Sunday was long run day (ok providing it was planned around a café lunch or cake at the end!).

Road running in the winter snow!
Lots of hill reps in the local woods………..great sunsets here though.

I hated this regime! Believe me I can throw a better tantrum than a 2 year old you’ve just taken sweets off. If I’m cold, wet, hungry or in pain I’m horrible…….there’s no other way to describe me, I’m not the best version of me. Being in a running club and having runners in the family, I have a few running heroes in my life. Those running heroes have led me on training runs, been brave enough to point out my wrong doings and resilient enough to ignore the shit and abuse I’ve blurted out at them when 16 miles into a training run and I’ve lost the will to live. 😆 So to those people I would like to say two things……………….thank you and sorry! You definitely need people like these in your life as part of your training plan, who know what you are going through, have been there, and won’t take it personally!

I have a bizarre love of mud, give me a muddy trail run over a road run any day! 😍

Second thing…………………….food. I don’t think about it…..I just eat it! But I can now proudly declare that I can reel off the carb content of numerous items without looking. I can tell you that 4 Bassetts Jelly Babies contain 20g, a pack of Shot Blocks 50g, a Soreen mini malt loaf 20g………………I really am that sad! I know that I need 50g of carbs per hour to prevent the onset of a tantrum 😆, I learnt at my expense to take some caffeine free things. I spent many runs trying different foods, working out which didn’t upset my stomach and which were the most efficient to carry, being small in size and high in carbs. Never in my life did I imagine it would be so technical!

21 miles in and still running!

Third thing …………………. injury! I already have a small stomach hernia which meant I’d had to adjust and cut out some core weights training. But step up the distance and the speed on tarmac at 53 years of age and you will most likely pick up an injury. In my case the onset of piriformis syndrome and some general wear and tear and aggravation between my third and fourth vertebrae. That entailed, quite literally a pain, in my ass, lower back and down my left leg as my sciatic nerve was impacted. So January saw me visit the physio for the first time in my life when it got so bad I was in pain all the time, not just when running. So what followed were fortnightly visits to the physio for three months, half an hour of exercises twice a day every day, and a colour coordinated display of kinsio tape all over my back. I have to say though, I’m not complaining because when you get to a certain age a fortnightly bottom massage by a young male physio is a highlight! 🤭

No turning back…..my name is on the wall.

So all this was going on for months………………training, nutition, physio. Everyone except myself thought I could do it. The only self doubt was my own. It all sort of fell apart about a month before the race.

Heading for the Place de la Bastille.

Physio and training were going ok and I realised I was actually going to make it to the start line. So I had a little plan. I decided to raise a little bit of money for my chosen charity………UNICEF. Now this is where the 70% mental strength comes in because this is where the wheels fell off for want of a better term. I’d now gone and announced to everyone that I was running a marathon. Very few people knew until that point. Much to my delight the sponsorship money for UNICEF came flooding in. However, what I had done was just apply a huge amount of pressure over and above that pressure and self doubt I was already piling on myself. I started to fall apart mentally.

Race Face 😂 I’m not to be messed with when I’m pulling this face!

I’m normally Mrs Positive Pants! But I don’t know what happened. I’d had an horrendous training run…….my last big one, just over 20 miles in three hours twenty minutes. I had been in terrible pain for the last few miles. I’d kept going but tears were streaming down my face. I completely fell apart. On that particular day there was no way I could have run another 6 miles, I was absolutely broken. I also knew that I had run out of time to get another long run of that size in. I had a physio appointment the following week and he worked so hard…………..massage, acupuncture, taping………..everything.

My weakness……………I will not give up……….it’s not in my nature to quit.

So the time had come to depart to Paris on the Wednesday before the Marathon on Sunday and the marathon demons had well and truly taken over. “I know what I’ll do”, I thought, “I’ll have my nails done!” 😂😂 Because that was really going to help wasn’t it?!?! Well actually it did because every girl likes a little pamper……………….I’m no exception to that rule………….. and having my nails painted a lovely positive pretty pink for Paris did make me feel better. A bit of self love never hurts.

The journey to Paris went to plan and I thought I might settle a bit when I got there but I didn’t. I was so anxious. Anxious like I have never felt before. I’m not a road runner, I’m a trail runner. Trail runners are a different breed. We forget to stop our watches as we don’t really care about the time. Road runners are obsessed by time…………I wish I had a £ for everytime I’ve been asked “How quick do you want to do it?” or afterwards, “What was your time?” So I’d just mumbled that I hoped to do it in 4 hours 30 minutes, I’d completely made it up as I didn’t even know if I could finish. I just wanted to run it all without stopping and finish! That was the goal.

Just out of the shower, wet hair, makeup free, bleary eyed and wishing I hadn’t booked the 5:30am flight!

But then you become obsessed. I started googling “What is the average marathon finish time for a 53 year old women?” But then something really interesting popped up it said “The average 50 year old women does not run a marathon, you’ll be faster than the 99% of the population that have never run a marathon.” So very true! “Pull yourself together”, I thought.

So I spent a couple of days wandering around Paris which I’ve already told you about. But it was a bit like being on a roller-coaster. I cried into my breakfast every morning, then I got myself together, then I fell apart again, and so it went on. Carbohydrate loading in Paris was good. I think my favourite was the galette with stewed apples, caramel sauce and ice cream. I did get into trouble when I asked for a ‘crepe’ though. I got a little eye roll and that “she’s obviously British look”. But it looked like a crepe to me! Apparently a galette is made with buckwheat flour, not regular flour like a crepe. How was I to know?! At least I didn’t ask for a ‘pancake’ which is what we call them at home, that would have really been the end of the straw for the waiter I think, and confirmation that the Brits are in town! 😆

A Galette with apples, caramel sauce and vanilla ice cream………..YUM 😍

Anyway…….the day of the marathon arrived. I’d slept quite well, forced some breakfast down, had my protein porridge, taken some anti- inflammatories and been to the toilet arout 15 times! 😂That’s quite usual for me………I have a very intense flight or flight response. The hotel was around 4 miles from the start and unfortunately all the roads were closed by now, I couldn’t get a taxi and the metro was heaving. So I had a cunning plan………I downloaded an app, unlocked one of those city bikes complete with bell and basket and and off I went whizzing through Paris on my bike like Mary Poppins. I only had to run 26.2 miles so a 4 mile warm up on a bike wouldn’t hurt! 😂I’d not anticipated the cobbles and arrived at the start a little shaken (literally). I was a bit early so dashed in a café to grab a coffee, sort myself out and use the toilet (again!).

So very nervous by this point! Can I just go in Louis Vuitton behind me for a look and a little window shop instead please? 😂

I arrived at the start in a complete and utter mess, there is no other way to describe it. I’d been in every portaloo from the entrance shute to the start line, felt physically sick and had tears streaming down my face. I have honestly never been so terrified in my life. I don’t think I’ve ever felt like it before and I hope I never feel like it again. I’m not 100% sure what it was, I think it was a number of things. The thought of not finishing, the thought of not running it all, the thought of the pain, the thought that everyone was tracking me (I’d had to turn off my phone the night before), I just hate being the centre of attention but you can’t raise money without telling anyone what you are doing can you!😆 It was the most bizarre feeling and so out of character because I’m normally very brave.

I’m not praying 😂…….just trying to get myself in the zone and shut everything else out on the start line.

And then you start looking around and everyone else looks like they are an Olympic runner. They’ve got all this equipment on and all these accessories strapped to them and all these fancy food supplements. I’ve got half a sharing pack of Jelly Babies, some Soreen and my calf sleeves on (which the lovely girls at work bought for me for my birthday because I kept getting cramp😍). And then they all start stretching and doing a workout routine, at which point I need the toilet again!

So I had my last visit to the toilet, started my watch, and set off. I can’t explain what happened but as soon as I went over the start line the anxiety just lifted. It was just the anxiety of anticipation. I’d got my strategy, it was so well practiced, I just had to stick to it. And I think that is the key to running a marathon for me……….have a strategy, make sure it’s your strategy and no-one elses, and stick to it. Everyone will run a marathon differently and I think that was my problem, there were so many people telling me all different things and I was getting myself in a real panic as I did not know who to listen to. But they key is………listen to you and no-one else………because only you knows you the best!

7 miles in and feeing strong!

So what was my strategy:

  • To run no faster than a 9:30 mile pace, but to run it consistently for 26.2 miles. I knew from experience that to run faster would mean my pain would start sooner. Running at this pace I knew I should be relatively pain free until around mile 18 and would have a better chance of running to the finish.
  • To eat 25g of carbs every 30 minutes and take them on board 1k before every 5k aid station.
  • To take a little water to wash down my carbs every 5k and make sure I stayed hydrated without drinking to much in one go and having it all sloshing around.
  • To take anti inflammtories again at 15k then they’d be working by 20k and would give me 3 hours of reduced pain.

    To try and enjoy it and shut myself off from the ‘negative Nellies’ and all the ‘noise’.

So that’s the key………………….RUN YOUR OWN RACE!

Being chased down by a very professional looking vision in pink!😆

That’s what I did. I trotted around Paris and tried to enjoy it as best as I could. I entered this rather surreal parallel mindset……..call it a zone, a focus, call it what you want, I’m not sure. It’s written on my face in most of the pictures…………………I think it must be my ‘race face’. 😂 I am completely unaware of my surroundings…………………….I ran 26.2 miles without speaking to anyone and missed all the sights including the Eiffel Tower! 😂 At one point, around 15 miles in I even felt quite giddy, excited and out of my own body. I can’t really explain it and thought it might have been too much caffeine. I explained it to a friend who suggested I might have experienced a ‘runners high’. 😂 We both found that absolutely hilarious because the last person you would expect to get a ‘runners high’ is me!!!!! I’ve had plenty of ‘runners lows’ but never a ‘high’!

Yes………..definitely in the ‘zone’ with this face!

When I look back now I realise I had no need to be nervous…………………I was so well prepared. I was unprepared for cobblestones, and as a result my toe nails have taken a bit of a beating but other than one blister on the ball of my right foot I was pretty unscathed. It is an uphill marathon from 35k which is not the best place for the elevation to start gaining, but it’s not uphill by Yorkshire standards. My pace slowed slightly between 35k and 40k and there were a lot of people walking but I did not notice the hill too much. My splits were pretty even and I’m pleased with them.

You will see some people in some real states of difficulty. I never realised how much roadside vomiting occurred in a marathon! 😂But pace yourself and you should keep everything in your tummy. I look a bit pale and green in my finish photo and I did feel sick but my final 3k were my fastest and I was in a huge amount of pain, which I think is what made me feel sick. I was exhausted but I sprinted the last kilometre as fast as I could because to be quite honest with you, I just wanted it over with, I’d well and truly had enough. I don’t think I realised at the time how much I was hurting but the photos from the final kilometre do tell the tale, I’m not at my most photogenic!! 😆

I’d envisioned myself looking like this on the final sprint………………..
…………………but I looked like this! 🤣🤣

So it is done…………….4 hours 24 minutes and 36 seconds……………..not that that matters to me at all, but it seems to matter to everyone else! 🤭

“Someone carry me please!” Over the finish line under the watchful eye of the Red Cross paramedic taking a tentative step………..gosh it hurt. The finish line looked a bit like a scene from ‘Night of the Living Dead’ 😂

I can see what people mean now when they say that courage is not running a marathon, it’s getting to the start line. For me the four day lead up to the race was 100 times harder than the race itself.

So I might have lost 5 toe nails in total and 5 months of my life. But I got my medal and more importantly UNICEF got almost £800 which was my priority.

Bloody and bruised toe nails pre pedicure and nail paint! These were so sore but much better now.


Oh and even better (better even than the medal)………………….I got cake! I have the best work team ever! A cake waiting on my desk on Monday morning! 😍 But even the opportunity to wear my slippers for work and eat cake won’t persuade me to do another! My marathon days are complete!

When work involves cake I like it!😝 They know me well.

I also learnt a lot about me too as it’s been a bit of a journey. I learnt a lot about resilience, about positive thinking, about the power of the mind over adversity. I don’t think I realised how strong I was mentally or physically. It was also never far from my mind how extremely lucky I was to be there, running. All through the marathon, and particularly when the going got tough, I thought of my two lovely friends, who sadly are no longer with us and able to run a marathon. So as always, in addition to being for UNICEF, this one was for Karen, as was my first ever 10k for Cancer Research all those years ago, I still miss her so much. And for Gill too………..who at the time was still fighting……..my pain was nothing by comparison and I realise that. And for my boys too ……… I hope that the crazy lunatic of a mother that they laugh at and torment daily has made them proud and taught them a little about resilience ……………I’ll shall be racing them to the pub when they are home………………last one there buys the drinks and it won’t be me! 😂

The Fastest 50 Year Old in the Village!!!

This is a very quick post! Because today I am allowed to blow my own trumpet! Because for me, last night was a very special night………..I went out out! It does not happen too often ……. usually I start yawning at around 6 o’clock and dreaming of my robe, slippers and book but last night I made an effort…………dress, makeup and even sparkly shoes!!

You see………I do own a dress……….not just outdoor gear!

Where did I go?!?! Well………last night it was the annual running club presentation evening. I’ve only been to it once before as I’ve only been in the club for 18 months.

I am the girl who absolutely hated running at school. I used to hide in the ditch and sneak a quick walk in cross country and got stitch in my tummy just thinking about setting off. I loathed it. I was near the back of any running competition. I’m not that competitive, there was no prize, so I just didn’t see the point in overexerting myself. 😂

The above just sums up running for me! I might have told you before that I’m one of those that found running later in life, in my forties, to deal with grief after the loss of a friend. These days running does for me what books do for me too. Books and running allow you to escape, go some place else, to find peace, and be free.

I now have another friend receiving end of life care, a child I’m worried about (does that ever end!), and the world just seems like it’s getting closer to imploding with every passing day. So I need my running at the moment, more than running needs me. While out on my little runs I listen to the birds, take in my surroundings, get muddy, think of all the things I have to be thankful for, and eat cake afterwards! It’s my happy place.

Today’s bake!

So that’s basically it. I never try or intend to win my category in a race, if I do it’s just lucky. I just turn up to all my races, never take myself seriously and laugh my way around. However, I am a little competitive and will race anyone into the clubhouse afterwards to the cake.

So it’s now official………..last night I was crowned the fastest 50 year old female in the village (well I’m 53 actually)!!!! But not in one of the three Club Championship categories………………..I’ve won all THREE!!!! Clean sweep. I’m sat here looking at my little glass trophy which says I am the Club Championship Veteran 50 ‘Road Champion’, ‘Cross Country Champion’ and ‘Fell Champion’. For those of you who are not from around these parts, the latter title does not mean I fall down a lot (although I do do that too). A ‘fell’ is a word we use in Northern England and Scotland which is taken from the Norse word for mountain. And it is just that, a mountain or large moor covered hill, of which we have lots around here, and we run and race on them all year.

Proud of me!

But not only that, I’m even more proud of me because I was awarded the Club Championship shield for the ‘Overall Female Fell Champion’. I am absolutely astounded, I can’t quite believe what I’ve pulled off! 😂 Neither can my two boys who are taking a bit of convincing that there was actually anyone else in the competition!

It’s just about turning up, having the courage to start, putting one foot in front of the other and keeping going, just don’t stop! That’s the one thing I don’t know how to do………….I never give up! Some people think it’s my strength and is endurance. I see it as a bit of a weakness and more stubbornness and reckless determination. I can think of a few times where it would have been more sensible to give up, but I don’t know how.

So this morning I have two trophies and a headache! So rough I’ve had to bake a cake to satisfy my sugar craving, and all I have done other than bake a cake, is sit and look at my trophies and read as I don’t feel like moving!😆

I’m just sat staring at them! 😂

The message here is that providing you stick at it you can do most things if you put your mind to it. If the menopausal woman, with a hernia who eats cake can do this, then most people can. And the second bit of advice is don’t mix dry white wine, lager and stout on the same night out…….they make you feel really rough the next day. 😢

Well……..today’s life goal anyway!

Salamanca

Loved it! Out of the four cities visited: Madrid, Segovia, Salamanca and Toledo…………..Salamanca was the winner. It’s the glamorous supermodel of the four. It is so stunningly beautiful.

It’s nice and compact, feels quite affluent, buzzing with life (as it has a large student population), very clean, not too busy and has one gorgeous building after another. Every way you turn it is breath-taking, by day and by night. It also feels incredibly safe as a solo female traveller, the people are really friendly.

Ornate golden spires and domes of Salamanca

Because there is quite a lot to see in Salamanca I stayed for two nights and had two full days to look around and that was about the right amount of time to see the main sights.

Imposing Cathedral

I stayed in the Salamanca Suite Studios in the Plaza Libertad, a very pretty, little green square, literally just around the corner from the main Plaza Major in Salamanca. The accommodation was perfect: fantastic location, reasonably priced, quiet at night, comfy bed, the best shower ever, a little kitchenette and a very friendly and helpful reception. It was perfect for me.

The view from my room onto the lovely little green and quiet Plaza Libertad
The most amazing shower……nozzles everywhere….like being jet washed! 😂

You can get to Salamanca from Madrid by train or by bus. Either is good. I went on the train and came back on the bus as the train was full. Bus is slightly easier as the bus station in Madrid is easier to get to than Chamartín train station, but it’s a bit more expensive and a little slower than the train, so it just depends on your preference really. Both the train and bus stations in Salamanca are an easy walk into town. Salamanca is a little further away from Madrid than Toledo and Segovia, it’s around 1 hour 40 minutes on the train and 2 hours on the bus. I had a lovely couple of hours reading my book on the way there and on the way back I was placed next to a lovely young man who was on his way from Salamanca to Madrid to meet his friends to watch Athletico Madrid. It was really useful as he was a bit of a chatterbox and did not speak a word of English, so he had the full inquisition in my very best Spanish, a bit like the inquisition my boys get after a long absence. I found out where he was from, details on brothers and sisters, what he studied, where he worked, his parents have a holiday home on the coast of Asturias in a little town I am going to, and in the end he was giving me a guided tour of Asturias from his phone picture gallery and proudly showing me pictures of his shiny bike and him in the Picos de Europa, and recommending where I should go on my next trip. I was very pleased with myself at having extracted all that information in Spanish! He only burst into laughter a couple of times and pointed out my errors politely! I dread to think what I may have said!😂

Street Art

I had a lovely little walk from the station on my arrival, past some interesting street art in the new town, and quickly found myself at my hotel. I checked in and went in search of food, I was so hungry and it was getting late.

Real life Stork

Sometimes I just need a burger! Not very Spanish, I know, but when I’m really hungry sometimes I crave one. If you are in need of a burger while in Salamanca this is the place to go! The restaurant is called Brooks and it is on one corner of the Plaza Libertad. It serves burgers and beer, and the burgers are to die for. I had the Campera Burger – in addition to the perfectly cooked homemade burger, it had molten provolone cheese, chimichurri mayo, rocket, red onion, creole chorizo, grilled vine tomato, all served in a toasted brioche bun with hand cut skin on fries. Oh my, it was gorgeous. In the menu they also recommend which of their beers go best with your burger. I went for the recommended Leffe Tripel, a strong and full bodied Belgian beer which I like to drink at home in the UK, and it was the perfect pairing. Just what I needed.

The Brooks ‘Campera’ Burger
Leffe Triple!

An early night beckoned, ready to get up early and explore the next day.

The old town of Salamanca is simply stunning and has been a UNESCO world heritage site since 1988.

Wide streets

The first stop the following morning was the main square in Salamanca. Is is easily the most beautiful Plaza Mayor I have ever seen, and possibly the most beautiful in Spain in my opinion. It is so opulent. It is Spanish baroque in style. It is arched all around the perimeter and underneath the arches sit cafes, jewellery stores, ice cream parlours and restaurants. The buildings in the square, and in fact, in most of the old town, are constructed from sandstone and give the whole town a golden glow in the sunlight. It is the perfect place to watch the world go by and is very much a gathering place for the people who live there.

Plaza Major by day

It was the perfect place for breakfast. If you want a reasonably priced café con leche and pastry for breakfast I can recommend café Las Torres. A huge custard ‘Raqueta’, freshly squeezed orange juice and delicious coffee, all for 5 euros.

Breakfast in the square – a Raqueta

By day the square is stunning, but you must go and see it by night. The whole square is lit up and it is the most beautiful sight, just like you have walked into a fairy tale.

The fairy-tale square by night

Wherever you turn in Salamanca there will be a beautiful building. The wide sweeping streets are lined with them, but one of the most stunning façades has to be that of the new cathedral. It is so ornate and elaborate. If you look closely at the carved stonework around the door you’ll see some new additions following a 1992 restoration. There’s an astronaut, an ice cream eating dragon, a monkey and various other curiosities.

Cathedral door
Astronaut
Spires
Ice-cream eating dragon

There is a new cathedral and an old cathedral. They are both together and the ticket to look around gets you into both. The new cathedral is not that new and dates back to between 1533 and 1733. It is gothic and baroque in style and is quite beautiful. The ceilings are so high and the placement of the windows in the ceiling are such, that the light illuminates the high vaulted ceiling and baroque painted cupola perfectly. The old cathedral is a bit of a disappointment compared to the new, but you might as well have a quick look while you are there.

High gothic vaulted ceilings
Cathedral bling

In front of the Cathedral is a pretty little square which separates the Cathedral from the University, the Plaza de Anaya. There are normally a number of students hanging around and it’s the perfect place to put your feet up for a minute with a cool beer after trudging around the town.

Plaza de Anaya
Resting my legs……….beer in the Plaza de Anaya
Quiet spot around the back of the Cathedral

I came out of the cathedral and suddenly realised that I gone a full 48 hours without an ice cream! Yes, I know it was February but the sun was shining and in my opinion you can eat ice cream 365 days a year, it’s not just for summer! If you want an ice-cream make your way back to the Plaza Mayor and under one of the arches you will find Heladeria Bico de Xeado. This could be my favourite shop in Spain!😂 It was such a difficult decision. Do I want Turron? Do I want Chocolate Orange? Or do I want one of the many other tempting flavours they have on offer? I just could not decide so I had both: Turron and Chocolate Orange………and while we are at it lets go large in a chocolate coated cone! I just can’t help myself.

Turron and Chocolate Orange flavours in a chocolate cone 😍

After stuffing myself full of ice cream I thought I had better walk it off a bit so spent a good couple of hours just wandering and admiring the beautiful facades of all the golden sandstone buildings. A very interesting one is the ‘Casa de las Conchas’ or ‘House of Shells’. This is a very unusual and pretty building completely covered in sandstone shells, symbol of the Order of Santiago. It currently houses the public library. Apparently there is hidden treasure behind one of the shells, but I did not find it!

Casa de las Conchas
Las Conchas

Opposite the ‘House of the Shells’ is ‘La Clerecia’, a very beautiful building now part of the Pontifical University of Salamanca. If you wander down the street at the side of the ‘House of the Shells’ you walk past the ‘Colegio de Espana para Extranjeros’, where I might have been better spending the day 😂, and eventually come to another pretty little square surrounded by the Monterrey Palace, a lovely building with a lot of history.

Spires of La Clericia nest to Casa de las Conchas
The Spanish school for foreigners like me!
Monterrey Palace

Wandering the streets, there are some beautiful shops for those of you that like to shop for gifts or just to treat yourself. I am drawn to the turron and chocolate shops and bought some little sweet treats for my two sons. I also had a little chuckle at the diversity of the Spanish general store. In Business Studies and Economics this is a true model of diversification and covering all bases of the consumer market. It is the one stop shop for your snacks, your coffee, drinks and water, perhaps a gift or something exciting to spice up that night in at home! 😆 Yes, I did go in and have a look because having a degree in business and marketing I was most intrigued as to how they had applied the 7 P’s of the marketing mix to the wide selection on offer.😂

The shop that sells ‘everything’! 😂
Bakery and sweet shop

Opposite the new Cathedral is the University. If you walk around the University onto the Calle Libreros you come to the Puerta de Salamanca door. Somewhere amongst all the ornate carved stonework is the Salamanca Frog. Legend has it that if you can spot the tiny frog carved into the intricate stone façade you are sure to have great academic success and pass your exams without a problem. Could I find it? No! I spent ages looking for it. Not wanting my academic future to be jinxed I undertook a transaction with the elderly beggar at the door. I gave him the money for his next coffee in exchange for him revealing the location of the frog! Does that count if I paid someone to show it me?!? I’m not sure. I reckon he makes a fortune as there is no way you’d spot it if you did not know where it was.  

The University Door – Where is the frog?!
On top of the skull! I’d never have found it!

I needed another little sit down and a snack so I wandered back to the main square to the bakery because I wanted to try something I had seen in the window that looked like a pie……………..and I love a pie! Well, it’s sort of a bit like a UK pasty but it’s called an Hornazo. It’s not bread and it’s not pastry, it’s sort of an in-between, stuffed with pork loin, spicy chorizo, and hard-boiled eggs. It has quite an interesting history. Apparently at Lent the prostitutes of the city were banished to the other side of the river. Hornazo’s were eaten on Easter Monday by students on the banks of the river to celebrate their return. I very much enjoyed mine sat in the sunshine in the square.

Hornazo time!

The early evening was spent reading my book and having a little siesta which turned into quite a long siesta as I dropped into a deep sleep which I must have needed. The bed was oh so comfy. I was awoken by such a commotion outside. Dusk was starting to fall and little did I know that the trees in the square outside my window were home to thousands of roosting starlings who had just completed their evening murmuration and landed outside, quite a noise.

But quite well timed, as they were my alarm clock to have a quick shower, get my playing out clothes on and go for a few drinks in the bar across the square on the corner of Plaza de Libertad. It had a nice vibe, some cracking tunes (as we would say in Yorkshire), and friendly staff who mixed an amazing G&T. And they had so many gins to choose from, all lined up on a shelf, including my favourite summer time gin…….Gin Mare. I love Gin Mare………you can taste the summer, wild herbs and the sea! Ok, it’s February and I’m in Salamanca but close your eyes while sipping a Gin Mare and tonic and you could be anywhere. I only had a couple of G&T’s as I always forget when in Spain that when you ask for a gin and tonic you do actually get what seems like half a bottle of gin. So two large gin and tonics saw me all nice, warm and fuzzy, but still able to wobble across the square to my room.

Nice Bar…………….
…………nice gin!

The following day the sun was shining brightly and it was the perfect day to be outside. Salamanca looks lovely in the sunshine. The lady in the hotel reception told me it looked really nice from the other side of the river. She pointed me in the direction of the city walls and and the Puerto Romano, old roman bridge. It’s a lovely slow stroll over to the other side of the roman bridge and she was right, it is a lovely point from which to look back and survey the cityscape.

The city wall
Salamanca from the Roman Bridge

On the way back I revisited a lovely little garden which I’d been to the day before. It sits atop the city wall and is so peaceful. It’s called the Huerto De Calixto & Melibea. It’s a tiny little garden tucked away through an archway. There are lovely views over the city walls down to the river. The planting in there is beautiful and all the spring flowers were starting to poke through the ground. There is a little tinkling fountain and lovely shady seating. The perfect place to have a little reflect, read a book, or just to relax. It gets it’s name as it is supposed to be based on the secret meeting place of Calixto & Melibea, the main characters in the well known Spanish masterpiece ‘La Celestina’, a tale of a passionate love affair that ends in tragedy.

Entrance to the garden of Calixto & Melibea
Inside the garden of Calixto & Melibea

On the way to the garden you can call to look at the Cueva de Salamanca. Here are the remains of a former crypt where, according to legend, the devil would teach black magic classes. You can only get so far in at the moment though as access is blocked due to the unsafe structure. Worth a little look though to read the information plaques.

Entrance to the Cueva de Salamanca

After a morning soaking up the outdoors and atmosphere of the city on this lovely sunny day, it was only a couple of hours to my return bus to Madrid. One last place to visit for lunch…………..the market! We all know how I love a good market feed. It means I can try numerous different things. The market is situated just off the main square, down some steps to a lower level. It has some lovely Art Deco stained glass feature windows and architecturally if you like Art Deco you will love the market building itself. Inside it has all the stalls you would expect……….meat, fish, cheese, sausages. I bought some bits and bobs for my lunch which were so delicious I forgot to take a photo!

The lovely Art Deco entrance to the market
Fish!
Jamón!
Meat stall

So that’s your little mini tour of Salamanca. Definitely overlooked on the tourism radar compared to the bigger Spanish cities, but twice as nice. But I guess that’s what I liked about it. It wasn’t full of tourists! It had a happy, chilled, laid back vibe about it. I felt relaxed and comfortable there and could have stayed longer, doing nothing much other than watch the world go by and reading my book. It’s a must do place if you are in this part of Spain.

I still have Toledo to tell you about……….and now Paris and a Marathon too……………….so watch this space! Marathon recovery is well underway and this week has involved, in addition to work, a little bit of orienteering………..more on that later…………..a glorious Yorkshire sunset on my evening wanderings and all sorts of little adventures.

Special Place. The village bench…….where pandemic revision and book reading took place, where the world is put to rights, where I escape to on nights like these, and where my mini me’s tattoo coordinates point to!

But today I have spent the day with one of my very favourite friends……………..Spencer! It wasn’t Spencer I went to see it was his Mum who is a very dear friend of mine who is not so well at the moment. But it gave me the opportunity to have lots of doggy cuddles. In short, if you know me well you will know I have always wanted a dog but never been allowed to have one. I’d spend 24 hours in the company of a dog rather than a human on any day of the week! 😂 Anyway, I love Spencer and Spencer loves me as I am an endless source of tummy rubs and ear tickles. It took three attempts at a selfie today as he felt the need to lick my ear mid pose and I’m ticklish, but here we are, third time lucky! 😍

Two have fun in London! Camden, Hammersmith and The Black Pumas

Well, what a lovely two days. My mini-me and I in London.

Salamanca and Toledo updates are on the way, but this last weekend I have been in the city of London spending some quality time with the baby of the family. It was a little treat for my birthday earlier in the month and his impending 21st birthday in a couple of weeks, when he officially becomes an adult and I have suggested he might want to start behaving like a grown up too!😂 That went down well!

London!

It’s also the week when I officially became the most embarrassing parent on the planet without trying. But more on that in a minute.

The location of London was decided because the secondary purpose of the visit was to go to a concert, which my mini-me had volunteered to come to with me………….he loves his music, and he loves London. My oldest one was invited too, but he is on the final push to becoming a Master of Astrophysics, and being very studious, he was doing something which he tells me I won’t understand. Because despite having a degree, and sharing my intelligence genes with him, he thinks I am rather stupid.

Early morning set off from the village.

Embarrassing moment number one occurred before I even got to London, and is a perfect example of how my brain is sometimes like cotton wool, especially so early on a Sunday morning. I’d only got as far as the train station in Doncaster. I was travelling on my own and meeting my youngest in London as he was travelling from University, which is the other side of the country to me. I just had time to go to the toilet before my train. I paid my 20 pence to get in the toilet, when to my horror, I got stuck in there. The turnstile would not open to let me out. Ten minutes to my train departure, and with no-one in sight, there was no option (wearing a little black mini skirt and tights might I add), than to push my cabin case under the turnstile while I attempted to hitch my skirt up to climb over it. By this time two young men had rounded the corner and I was met with a round of applause for my stealth like manoeuvre over the top of a turnstile in a mini skirt. Following closely behind them I spotted the janitor, so being the kind person I am, I thought I’d point out the issue, to prevent the same happening to any other unsuspecting female traveller. She smiled widely whilst explaining about the button that you should press, that releases the turnstile. But apparently, in my defence, I’m not the first and it happens quite regularly!

I’ve found him!

So, I made it to London, the city that I like to visit, but love to leave even more! No offence to anyone from London, it’s an amazing place and I love it for a short period. If you grow up there it will be the norm, but for me it is sensory overload, it exhausts me, and as much as I adore it, I feel myself relax as the train pulls out of Kings Cross on its way back to Yorkshire.

When you’ve been so many times you run out of places to visit, and my little companion was only with me for the Sunday as he had Uni on Monday so was leaving on an early train on Monday morning. I decided to take him to Camden Town as I thought it would be his sort of place. It’s a bit like Marmite, you love it or hate it. I knew he’d love it, liking his art, music, food and clothes. I’ll share the highlights of what we got up to and you can make your own mind up as to whether it’s your sort of place.

Camden Underground Station

First challenge for me was the Underground. I hate it and have a fear of it. I have an issue being in a confined space, especially with lots of people, I start to feel really trapped. It’s an irrational fear I know, but with a rational source as it comes from being inside Hillsborough stadium on the 15th April 1989, at aged 18, when the infamous disaster occurred. I guess it’s something that will stay with me for ever but I’ve managed, with help, to overcome and face that fear. Whilst I don’t think I will ever be comfortable in those situations I can now face them and they don’t interfere with my life like they did when I could not even entertain the idea of being in an elevator or any confined space.

It’s so dark and dingy.

With the Underground in London there is that awful smell too, like a mechanical oily smell. It’s cold, damp, dirty, dimly lit and with all those old tiles looks like the inside of a badly maintained public toilet. I know for some people that’s the beauty and charisma of it but for me there’s nothing nice about it, but I made it from Kings Cross to Camden Town on the Underground after meeting my little bundle of joy!

And dirty white tiles……….like a badly maintained public toilet.

So, why come to Camden? It’s a centre of counter culture and 100% sensory overload…………………..sights, sounds, smells, colour, street art, music, food. It’s a thriving, alternative area and very popular with the younger crowd. It’s an area where everyone fits in. You can’t really stand out in Camden because literally anything goes!

Camden Market
The bustling High Street down to Camden Lock

First stop was a little tour around to see some fantastic street art. It’s all over Camden and it is so colourful and well done. Being very creative he loved this.

Very good street art.

Then we wandered down the very lively Camden High Street. There is music coming from all directions, all different genres. The smell of food from every corner of the world wafts along the pavement. Everywhere you look, the shop fronts are emblazoned in every colour of the rainbow.

Colourful shop fronts.

It was time for food, and in Camden you are spoilt for choice as it is like one huge food market. There’s Buck Street Market, Hawley Wharf Market, Camden Lock Market and the Main Camden Street Food Market. We wandered around them all, deciding what to have. Buck Street is really interesting in its layout as it’s constructed out of colourful painted shipping containers all stacked on top of each other, with a central courtyard. Hawley Wharf is a little more upmarket and newer, down near the wharf.

Buck Street Market
Hawley Wharf

As it was a sunny blue-sky day, we opted to go to Camden Lock Market and partake in the offerings from ‘Burger & Beyond’ whilst watching the canal boats bob around in the canal basin in the sunshine. According to ‘Time Out’ magazine, these are London’s best burgers and I’m not going to argue with that……………..YUM!

Cheeseburger!
Burger & Beyond
Camden Lock

Then we walked around the vintage shops, because all students love a vintage clothes market! We weaved our way through all the high sided alleyways of old industrial canal side buildings and under the railway arches, which were covered by a ceiling of brightly coloured umbrellas……….very atmospheric.

Tall canal side buildings and railway arches.
Colourful umbrellas.

Camden has been home to many famous people………..John Keats, Charles Dickens, George Bernard Shaw and J. B. Priestley, and still continues to be the home for many celebrities. We came across the statue to the Queen of Camden, Amy Winehouse. She was from nearby Enfield but moved to Camden in 2003 when she released her debut album. She felt at home there and remained there until her tragic death in 2011.

Amy and I

Camden is bordered by the very affluent area of Primrose Hill and its adjacent park, Regents Park. After the sensory overload of Camden we wandered over to Primrose Hill, passing through Chalcot Crescent, where the bright yellow house at number 32, is where Paddington Bear lived with the Brown family in Paddington 2.

Look out for Paddington at the yellow house No.32 Chalcot Crescent.

More recently, residents of Primrose Hill area have included Noel Gallagher, Harry Styles, Chris Martin of Coldplay, model Kate Moss and Gwyneth Paltrow. It’s quite a cool celebrity hangout. It is more like a village, and the high street is full of little independent shops: fruit & vegetable shops, book shops, cafes. It has a community feel which is quite rare in London. We took the opportunity to have a cake and coffee break before climbing up Primrose Hill.

What a dilemma………..a cake shop next to a book shop………..which first?
Greengrocers
Time for cake…………it’s always time for cake!

Primrose Hill is just that, a hill in a lovely park. Climb to the top of it and you will be rewarded with a fantastic view of the city. You’ll be able to pick out the Shard, Houses of Parliament, the London Eye, St Pauls Cathedral and many more iconic London buildings.

London skyline from Primrose Hill – what can you spot?

Wander down the hill and cross the road and you are in Regents Park. This is one of the Royal Parks of London. It’s a huge expanse of green space in the middle of London, and after the overstimulation of Camden it’s a good place to wind down on a lovely sunny day. Highlights of the park for me on this bright and sunny day were the reflection of the clouds on the boating lake, the Spring cherry blossom, the very beautiful planting of Spring plants in the flower borders and my close encounter with a very friendly heron………yes it’s a real one and had no intention of flying off!

Regents Park boating lake.
Pretty flower beds.
One very tame Heron.
Blossom!
A lovely day for a walk in the park.

Time now for another little trip on the Underground to our accommodation in Hammersmith. We were staying in Hammersmith, at the Luma – Heeton Concept Hotel, because we had tickets for a concert at Hammersmith Apollo that night which was due to finish late so I wanted to stay close by. It’s a nice good value hotel and its concept is based on the old Osram lightbulb factory which dominated this area of London back in days gone by. There are little light bulb facts and inspirational quotes all around the hotel.

Heeton Concept Hotel – Hammersmith
I love a good quote!

Time for a quick freshen up and change of clothes for the short 5 minute walk to Hammersmith Apollo, where we were going to see the Black Pumas. They are an American Grammy nominated soul band and this was one of only two gigs they were playing on the UK leg of their tour. Just one man with an outstanding vocal and song writing ability, another, who is an amazingly gifted guitarist/producer, and a backing band.

Out out!

Hammersmith Apollo is an iconic building in its own right. It was originally built as a cinema and is a Grade II listed Art Deco building, opened in 1932. The sound is fantastic, and perfect for a concert like this. It’s hosted many famous names, many of whom have released live recordings of their concerts there, the acoustics are so good. I’d bought the tickets on Spotify presale and they were excellently positioned. It was great to see the concert was completely sold out too, so the atmosphere was electric. The only downside, like in most venues where they have a captive audience, were the drink prices. And how is it that when you make your children pay their way they stick to beer and when they know you are paying they switch to double vodka and cokes!😂His drinks cost me nearly as much as his concert ticket!

So excited!
Still smiling as I’ve not had to pay for his drink yet!

The concert was superb, and certainly ranks in my top few concerts ever………..and I’ve been to a lot! No fancy set, costumes or lights required. Just his voice and the sheer quality of the musicians in the band were all it took. His vocal register and the way he just hits each note bang in the middle is just astounding! They played all my favourites from the first and latest albums. The highlights for me were ‘Colours’, which had everyone on their feet singing together, his absolutely perfect rendition of ‘Angel’ which was sung with such emotion, and which one concert goer captured for you to enjoy on social media (link below). The lovely surprise of the evening was when we were all getting our coats on to leave, the band had left the stage, and the lead singer waltzed through the side door into the audience circle with just his guitar to stand amongst us, thank us for attending, and gave us all a tear jerking rendition of his cover of Tracy Chapman’s ‘Fast Car’, while we all just stood around him, mouths open in amazement. All in all, it was an amazing concert, one of those you’ll remember for years to come.

Black Pumas!
Angel

I was rudely awaked the next morning by the offspring at 5:30am setting off for his train to Bristol, but after seeing him off I managed to catch another few hours sleep. My train home wasn’t until 7pm in the evening so I had one whole day to spend on my own in London……….what a hardship!😂

So what does a girl do when abandoned in London for the day……………..go shopping of course! I no longer have anyone clinging to my coat tails saying “Is this the last shop?”, “Can we go home now?”.

Carnaby Street

It was mainly window shopping because I’d spent all my money on Vodka hadn’t I! But it was lovely to wander around of my own accord. I spent most of the day around Carnaby Street, a lovely little shopping area which contains my favourite department store for window shopping………………Liberty! If you have never been, you have to go on your next trip to London.

Carnaby Street
Liberty Department Store

The building itself was designed by Edwin Hall in the 1920’s, a period of Tudor revival. It is constructed from the timbers of two ancient ‘three-decker’ battle ships with more than 24,000 cubic feet of timber from The HMS Impregnable and the HMS Hindustan. It’s now a listed building and is stuffed full of the most gorgeous clothes, homewares, fabrics and other things that the majority of us would have to re-mortgage our homes to afford.

Carved oak interior and floors and floors of gorgeous things!
Homeware!
Candles and smelly things for the bath and shower!

However, I did get myself a little treat. But it was such an ordeal and battle with myself. I’m not good a treating myself but I’m getting better. You spend so many years working hard and sacrificing things for the sake of everyone else that you get out of the habit of focusing on you. When your family are growing up your sole focus is making sure they have everything they need, sometimes making do yourself, or going without to put everyone else first.

Well, the internal battle began in the perfume department. I have an empty bottle of Hermes perfume at home. It’s been empty for 6 months and I’ve not got around to buying the replacement. I’m not a huge collector of perfume, I normally only have two bottles, a heavier going out perfume and a lighter daytime summer fragrance. It was my bottle of Hermes ‘Un Jardin en Méditerranée’ that was empty, my summer time perfume.

The perfumes of Santa Maria Novella, Florence.

But I fancied a change, and spotted the perfumes of Santa Maria Novella in Liberty. The Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella was first established in Florence in 1221. In that year, Dominican friars founded the convent of Santa Maria Novella, and began to cultivate a garden whose products they used to create balms and elixirs. I first came across their perfumes on a visit to Italy. In the UK they have one store in London, and also re-sell through Liberty and Harrods and that is your only option.

Rosa Novella – do I or don’t I?

I had a little spray in Liberty and fell in love with one of their scents called Rosa Novella. It is described as, ‘Evoking a lush garden in bloom as Spring awakens. This warm, seductive fragrance opens with sparkling notes of citrus, mingling with delicate white flowers and the sweetness of rose before the freshness reveals a harmony of green herbal tones that drift off into a smooth bed of moss and woods.’ Apparently, it’s based on the smell that greets you when you enter the garden of Santa Maria Novella in Florence in May. So very me, floating about in a dreamworld of woods and rose petals!🤭

But then I had the ‘should I, shouldn’t I’ debate. I sprayed a bit more and went for a wander, arguing with myself. The scent kept wafting up and eventually got the better of me, so I did the extravagant thing and spent my birthday money and bought myself a gift! I felt so guilty, but the lovely attendant on perfumes actually made me feel better. He said, “Do you want it gift wrapping, it’s free of charge?” To which I replied “Oh, no it’s ok, it’s only for me!”  He then looked me straight in the eye and said, “Well that’s exactly the reason why it should be gift wrapped then!” and proceeded to get his purple ribbon and fancy paper out. He did make me think for a minute how sometimes we do put everyone else first and don’t appreciate ourselves. So, if you buy yourself a little gift my message would be don’t feel guilty about it and if they ask you if you want it gift wrapping say “Yes please, with the fanciest ribbon and paper you have!”

All nicely gift wrapped!

Just time for spot of late lunch and then a steady saunter through some of my favourite parts of London on my way to Kings Cross station. Past the quintessential British pub on the corner and through the very vibrant China Town.

The quintessential English pub.
China Town

Then through Covent Garden, which looks beautiful at any time of year, with a little pause to watch the street performers and read some poignant quotes which I liked a lot and I’ll share one below.

Covent Garden
Covent Garden Market
More words of wisdom.

Then it was time to breath my sigh of relief and relaxation as I headed out of Kings Cross on my way back to God’s own County. Which I might add, is looking splendid, as Spring has finally sprung in my little happy place (my garden)!

Spring has sprung in my garden! – Primulas
Magnolia ‘Susan’
Daffodils
Magnolia ‘Stellata’

I’ve just realised, I’ve not told you about my second embarrassing moment of the week. It is really quite bad, but has had everyone, except my boys of course, rolling with laughter. It involves my love/hate relationship with Strava and the use of my data, which I hasten to add I have now hidden from all leader boards! I have been completely unaware that my lovely little running route takes me through a small car park which unbeknown to me is used for something of a sexual nature which is not exactly legal. You’ll have to use your imagination as I’m not explaining it on here! But basically it has been named as such on a segment on Strava, and guess who almost became the ‘Local Strava Legend’ of such spot after repeatedly obtaining a PB on the one mile sprint to that segment……….yes me! So, the running route has been amended as I simply don’t know where it is safe to look anymore as I run through the car park and I’ve altered my data privacy to ensure no more unfortunately named awards and PB’s are pinned to my name, causing unnecessary distress and embarrassment for my children!!😂🤭

My naivety at its best………………..this could only happen to me! 😂 Of all the possible places to get a one mile sprint award to!

Today I have been keeping myself out of mischief by preparing for their impending arrival for the Easter weekend………….because you are never too old for one of Mum’s chocolate Rice Krispie buns with Easter mini eggs or Lemon Drizzle loaf. I figured if I stayed in and baked I could not get myself into anymore embarrassing situations. Two’s enough for one week!

Segovia

OK, here I am to tell you about my recent day trip to the very lovely Segovia. I swear by the time I tell you about Salamanca and Toledo it will be Christmas and I’ll have been to numerous other places by then which I’ll want to share. I have just been so very, very busy. Both at work, at home, with my offspring, catching up with friends, various bits of DIY at home……………………….but here I am now with a quiet hour to share Segovia with you.

The Roman Aqueduct – Segovia

Is it worth taking a day out of a trip to Madrid to go there? Yes! And what’s even better is it can be seen very easily in a day. It takes just 27 minutes on the fast train from Madrid Chamartín/Clara Campoamor station. You can also get there on the bus, but I love the trains in Spain. In the UK, I only ever really take the train when I have to, as they are overpriced, usually late, unreliable and often cancelled. I went to Bristol the other week to see one of my children and it cost me £100 return, broke down at Birmingham on the way there, resulting in a change of train and the return train was cancelled. I have travelled extensively in Spain and Italy by train and their rail systems are far, far superior to that in the UK so don’t be nervous about relying on it, it’s excellent and cheap.

The easiest way to get to Madrid Chamartín/Clara Campoamor from the centre of Madrid is to use the Metro, as Chamartín is north of the city centre. Just make sure you get on the Metro going in the correct direction! 😂 Being a bit of a smalltown girl, I can find Metro systems quite confusing, and this is the day I found myself hurtling the wrong way on the Metro. 🤭 If that happens, just jump off at the next stop and reverse direction!

The rainy main street through Segovia

When you get to Segovia there are usually a couple of buses waiting at the station to ferry you to the town because the station at Segovia Guiomar is out of the city centre and a bit too far to walk. It only takes around 10 minutes and you can get one of two buses, one to the town centre or one straight to Segovia’s most famous site, the Roman Aqueduct.

I got on the one to the town as I needed breakfast, but you could get on either, as Segovia is really nice and compact to walk around and it is only around 15 minutes walk from one end of town to the other. First stop was a nice little café for a pastry and a café con leche to fuel me for the morning, and then a steady stroll to the aqueduct.

Let the day begin!! But never before my morning coffee!

Directly at the side of the aqueduct is the Tourist Information office. They are really helpful and if you visit Segovia I recommend you go. They give you a free map and will draw you a walking route around town on the map, so you can see all the main sites in the day without missing anything.

Object of amazing and old historical interest……and the Roman Aqueduct. 😆

So what’s special about Segovia? Well, it’s so special it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985. It is considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world in terms of its architectural configuration. It is a Roman walled city, and perhaps its most important site is its Roman aqueduct. You can’t possibly miss it, it’s huge! It is a masterpiece of hydraulic engineering, built to provide Segovia with water and has 167 arches. It is made of huge granite slabs, but what is even more impressive architecturally, is that it is completely self supporting, there is no mortar involved, just the laws of physics! Impressive stuff. A few photographs and a walk around the aqueduct and off I disappeared into the old town, ready to explore, armed with my map.

How many arches?!?!
Looks even better from up here!
Don’t look down!

It was the worst day of the week weather wise. It rained all day so the photos don’t really do Segovia justice, but the town, being quite small, has a really nice friendly feel to it. It’s a lovely little escape from the hustle and bustle of Madrid.

My first stop in the old town was the ‘Casa de los Picos’, or ‘House of the Peaks’. Quite a quirky building to look at from an architectural perspective. Named ‘House of the Peaks’ due to the many diamond shaped peaks on the exterior, which apparently had both defensive and ornamental function back in the day.

Casa de los Picos

Keep walking up the street and you will pass Saint Martin Church and eventually arrive at the central point in the old town, the Plaza Major. It’s quite a plain square compared to Madrid and others but lovely nevertheless. It was a good, covered, people watching spot for the second coffee of the day whilst I considered my next move.

Segovia’s Plaza Major

It was raining quite heavily by now so I decided to walk to the far end of the town to visit the Alcázar. You can find an Alcázar in quite a number of Spanish cities like Seville, Cordoba, Toledo and a few more. An Alcázar is a type of Islamic castle or palace built during Muslim rule. Having been to those in Seville and Cordoba I thought I’d visit the one in Segovia as it is supposed to be the most famous. From the outside it looks a little bit like the Disney Castle. Just before you go inside though, be sure to have a look at the top of the trees outside at the storks roosting amongst the branches. You’ll likely hear them before you see them as they clack their bills together during courtship and it’s really loud.

Alcázar – Segovia
Nesting storks

The first thing I noticed about the outside of the Alcázar was a really unusual and pretty pattern on the outside walls. Each intersection of the stonework is studded with volcanic rock in the mortar. It makes for a really pretty effect.

Volcanic rock set in the mortar

Inside, the Alcázar is just as impressive. There are old Arabic tiles, beautiful stained glass windows, ornate gold ceilings and lots of artwork, including one painting of the coronation of Queen Isabella of Spain. She was crowned at the Alcázar of Segovia. It’s worth climbing up into one of the towers to see the artillery room and admire the view over the river and town and across the flat plains around the town.

Stained glass windows
Old Arabic tiles
Ornate gold ceilings
View from the artillery room
Big guns!
Painting of the coronation of Queen Isabella………who dare I say it, is not looking too happy about it!

After I had spent a couple of hours in the Alcázar I was ready for my lunch, but not before a little surprise! I’m on the Camino again! 😁 I get so excited when I see a little shell on the pavement, I just want to follow it. If you know, you just know! It transpires that Segovia is on the The Camino de Madrid which goes northwards from Madrid, through Segovia, then on to Valladoid, joining the Camino Francés at Sahagún.

On the Camino again!

The food you have to try in Segovia is roast suckling pig. A quick search showed I was not too far away from a lovely little restaurant called El Sitio in the old town. It is very well known for this dish and it is a traditional Spanish restaurant which will give you a really authentic experience.

The lovely little El Sitio

It was a Tuesday lunchtime and it was heaving with people and I had not booked. I looked a bit out of place as I was on my own and was quite obviously the ‘tourist’. I had to use my very best Spanish and my biggest smile to try and explain that I wanted a table for one, I had not booked but really wanted to try the suckling pig. They just managed to squeeze me in and were so lovely, recommending what I should try if I wanted to sample local cuisine. Go check them out if you are in Segovia, it’s an amazing little place.

My roast suckling pig

To start they recommended Sopa Castellana (Castillian Soup). I have no idea what was in it but it was nice. The only thing I was not sure about was the barely cooked egg floating around in it as I’m a bit funny about runny eggs. But sometimes you just have to try these things and I liked it lots. It was like a garlicky, savoury broth with all bits of meat and bread and an egg floating in it. It tasted so much better than I’m making it sound.

Sopa Castellana (Castilian Soup)

Then came the meal I had been waiting for, roast suckling pig (vegetarians look away now). It was plonked in front of me and I was delighted to see it waving at me, yes, complete with little trotter, how cute! And it was so very good! The most delicious, juicy, sweet pork with a lovely crispy skin. I can cope with the trotter no problem, I might struggle a little bit if I got the smiling version!

Hi there 👋
Just so glad I didn’t get a ‘smiling’ version – I might not have known where to start.

And of course it would be rude not to squeeze a little dessert in. Nothing elaborate but one of my favourites when in Spain. I am a great lover of custard! All desserts should come with custard! I can eat custard on its own, and the good thing is in Spain you can! Natillas is a traditional Spanish dessert and is quite simply a cold chilled custard flavoured with vanilla and cinnamon, served with a plain vanilla Maria biscuit. The perfect ending to my lovely lunch.

Natillas 😍

After lunch I went to discover the cathedral. It’s a very pretty one and the highest point in the town. It is late gothic in style, with some huge vaulted ceilings. There is lots of gold, a beautiful organ, some lovely stained glass and a very pretty cloister. It is a lovely cathedral to visit and I was lucky enough to be wandering around while the organist was having a practice so I had some lovely music to accompany my visit. The acoustics were fantastic and I really wanted to put a request in for a rendition of my favourite Widor’s Toccata but thought I might be pushing my luck because it’s quite a big ask!

Segovia Cathedral
Lions and their tongues
Big shiny organ!
Gothic barrel vaulted ceilings
Cathedral bling
Pretty cloisters
Peaceful cloister garden

I was running out of time on my little day trip and I soon had to go for my return train. I just had time to have a wander through the old Jewish quarter of Segovia. At its peak this area housed five synagogues and was one of the richest and most populated communities in the whole of Castille. It is a neighbourhood of Segovia which was traditionally populated by the Hebrew community from the 12th century until the late 15th century, after which the Catholic monarchs promulgated the Edict of Granada which said that all Jews had to convert to Christianity or leave Spain. It’s a pretty little area which will transport you back in time. It is a worthwhile window into history, and another timely reminder of how religion can drive us apart if we don’t respect each others beliefs, or each others decision to not have a belief, sadly a lesson we appear to be no nearer to learning six centuries later.

This way to the Old Jewish Quarter
Old Jewish Quarter streets

That was all I managed in my short day trip to Segovia. I would definitely recommend it as a day trip. It’s nice, small and compact and has a really nice feel to it. It’s easy to get to and you can quite comfortably see all the main sites in one day. It gets a big thumbs up from me.

Next up Salamanca…………but it could take me a week or two as countdown has begun…………… 19 days from the marathon and I’m meeting myself coming backwards in addition to having bright pink and black tape stuck all over my lower back by the physio in an attempt to hold me together! 😂 I honestly do think I might fall apart if it is peeled off, but he told me with great delight that he chose pink and black tape to match my trainers, how thoughtful, that’s service with a smile for you! 😁 Today though, is the day I fell in love with Strava. Normally I don’t get on with it as I’m not really interested how fast or far I’ve gone. I’m usually just relieved to have finished each run and think the mapping would be far more useful if it told you where all the cake stops were en-route. 😆 However, today it told me I am ‘Superior’! My VO2 max (which I’ve no idea what that is but it sounds impressive!) is in the top 5% for my age and gender. But wait for it!!!!!!! My fitness age is 20 years old!!!!! Oh gosh………….I LOVE Strava now!

Strava I love you…………it feels great to be ‘superior’ and 20 again………. but the reality is this……………

Tonight though is a lovely trip to see possibly my favourite Opera……….Carmen………where I shall indulge in a few treats that probably don’t sit well with my training plan and I will try so desperately hard not to sing along to the Habenera and spoil the performance for everyone else. 😂

Madrid

Madrid……………you were such fun!

I spent weeks practicing my Spanish before I went but forgot to learn the phrase which would have come in most handy on this trip.

¿Dónde estoy? ¡Estoy perdida!……………………. Where am I? I’m lost! I know how to ask for the location of the bank, the train station, restaurant, hotel…….everything, except where I am. This was the week that saw me hurtling the wrong way on the Metro, inadvertently finding myself in the middle of a Pro-Palestinian protest, and generally getting into all sorts of mischief without even trying. I’ve quite decided I quite like being lost ………..it’s a positive experience because usually, you find the most exciting things when you are just wandering around aimlessly.

My happy excited face…………..I love discovering new places.

I had 7 days to spend in Spain. I managed to fit in the cities of Madrid, Segovia, Toledo and Salamanca. I loved them all, and Madrid perhaps wasn’t my favourite, but I loved it all the same. Today I only have time to tell you about Madrid, but I promise I’ll tell you what I got up to in the other cities in due course.

So Madrid…………what to see, where to stay, what to eat, how to get around………………….here goes.

I was a little overwhelmed on arrival. I got that feeling I get when I go to London because Madrid is similar in that it is huge. The buildings are gigantic, the streets are crammed packed full of people, and there is traffic and noise everywhere. There are various ways of getting from the airport. You can use the metro, take a taxi or get a bus. I took the airport bus, which at 5 Euros was a bargain, and it dropped me off 10 minutes walk from my hotel in probably one of the busiest throughfares in the city, Plaza de Ciebeles. I then had to walk up Madrid’s busiest street, Gran Via, to get to my hotel. First impressions were that I wasn’t sure I was going to like it in Madrid. Being there on my own, it felt a bit too ‘full on’ and busy for me. However, those feelings soon disappeared once I got to my hotel, found the bar and had time to settle, because fortunately not all Madrid is so ‘in your face’…….you can escape……..and what followed were a fantastic few days.

Huge buildings on the Gran Via.

So where did I stay……..fortunately not on the Gran Via! All the hotels seem to sell themselves on being near or on the Gran Via, but it is my idea of a nightmare. Think quantity rather than quality: busy, loud, brash. I might be doing it a dis-service, but it was definitely my least favourite part of Madrid, I really did not like Gran Via. I stayed just off the Gran Via down a quietish street in the area between Malasaña and Chueca. The hotel was fantastic, called the 7 Islas Hotel, I really can’t fault it, and I would return to this hotel again. It is full of lovely artwork, which changes often as the foyer doubles up as an art gallery. The rooms are so clean, fresh and minimalist. The staff are lovely, and it has an amazing cocktail bar menu!! I felt that it was good value for money. It’s in a perfect spot within walking distance of everything, but it feels peaceful as they have some lovely green plants throughout the hotel. It’s like a little peaceful haven in the middle of a metropolis. It was an early night the first night ready for the busy first day, although I did award myself a little lie in and hung my sign on my door to say I did not want molesting in the morning!😂 Not literally, but occasionally translation from Spanish to English and vice versa does make me giggle because sometimes things just aren’t what you think!

I’ve found the hotel cocktail bar!!
My very comfy room with a bed big enough to spread out like a starfish.
Hotel planting and pretty fairy lights…….so calming and relaxing.
Please…………………no molesting me in the morning!😆

Importantly for me, the hotel had a little gym, with treadmill, to maintain my training. The treadmill did look a little bit like the flight deck of a Boeing 737, and my brain only copes with simplicity at present. Too many buttons and flashing lights are dangerous, and I hate treadmill running anyway, but it sufficed……………………once I’d got used to it, after being expelled off the end a few times. It was quite a fancy gym, with cooled iced water with lemon slices floating in it, fluffy towels and floor to ceiling mirrors, which I’ve decided I don’t like………….I have no desire and no need to see what I look like during or after a 10k run on a treadmill.

This was only going to end badly for someone with brain fog………..just too many buttons and lights.

When I looked into where to stay in Madrid, the internet said that Malasaña and Chueca areas, which are next to each other, were suitable for ‘hipsters and the traditional’. It said they were trendy, had attitude, personality and were the ideal place to stay if you wanted to experience life as a Madrileno (person from Madrid) rather than a tourist. That sounds perfect, I thought……….and I did really like it. It’s also a really interesting and flamboyant area, and some websites describe it as the ‘epicentre of gay Madrid’. And it certainly was! Coming from a small village in the countryside in Yorkshire, I live in a bit of a ‘bubble’. However, I’m very open-minded and love to discover new things and have my eyes opened to the big wide world out there. I spent quite a few happy hours on my bar stool in the hotel cocktail bar window watching the comings and goings from the ‘bar’ opposite. Oh my!!!………….. some of the outfits were outrageously flamboyant, and the makeup was amazing. It was just like being on the set of RuPaul’s Drag Race. It was so much fun! I learnt some new vocabulary, had my eyes opened, and came to the conclusion that 99% of the time, I really do exist completely oblivious to the rest of the world in my little bubble.

Malasaña and Chueca proudly flying the flag.
Hotel cocktail bar Caipirinha……….one of my favourites, and it was a good one!

Getting around Madrid…….there are various ways. You can use the Metro (underground rail system), take the bus, or they have a bike and scooter scheme like in most major cities. I personally wouldn’t like to think I was traversing Madrid on a bike or scooter. It would be like peddling down the motorway on a children’s tricycle. Metro and bus are both good options and are well priced and efficient. I did both, depending on where I wanted to go.

For the brave ones that dare!

Now I’ll tell you about all the places I visited. I’ll cover food separately in a minute as that deserves its own write-up. I was in Madrid for three full days and feel that I saw all the main things that I wanted to see. You could easily spend longer seeing some of the lesser known sites, or spending longer in certain places, but anything less than 3 days and you might be a little rushed. There are so many things to see, but here are my highlights.

If you ask me what instantly springs to mind when I think of Spain (in addition to food, which is always at the forefront of my mind) it’s toilet lights that don’t stay on long enough and statues of men on horseback. In Madrid you won’t be disappointed. You’ll find yourself grovelling around in the dark feeling for the loo roll on many an occasion, and there are more horse riding men than you can shake a stick at. I’ve now developed a sort of sit down dance that I do when going to the toilet, it’s sort of a blend between an arm wave and a shoulder shimmy but I find it helps to keep the lights on if you undertake it while peeing. That’s a top tip.

Plaza Mayor

So first stop, Plaza Major. Almost every town and city in Spain has a Plaza Major, and Madrid has a huge one. It’s not the prettiest one I’ve seen on my travels, but it’s most definitely worth a visit and has that all-important man on a horse! This one is King Felipe III.

King Felipe III

Then I thought I’d visit the first of the two major art galleries I wanted to look in, the Centro de Arte Reina Sofia. This gallery contains Madrid’s finest collection of contemporary art. It contains pieces from the 19th century right up to the 1980’s by some of Spain’s greatest artists: Picasso, Miro, Dali and many more. Perhaps its most famous work is the original of Picasso’s Guernica, probably one of the most important pieces of artwork of the 20th century. It is much larger than I expected it to be at 3.5m by 7.8m and is a monochrome painting in the cubist style that Picasso became famous for. You could look at just this painting for hours and discover all the small elements of it, and their reason for being there. The museum also contains a number of sketches he did leading up to the painting of the full work, which sheds light on some of his thought processes.

Guernica by Picasso
One of the galleries in Centro de Arte Reina Sofia.

There is quite a lot of Miro in there too. Miro, I can take or leave, some of his work I love and some I just don’t understand. It’s not that I don’t like it, I just can’t seem to get on the same wavelength. If you are ever in Palma, Mallorca, there is a Joan Miro Museum on the outskirts, and I’ve been a couple of times and would recommend a visit. The building itself is a work of modern art. There is another museum dedicated to him in Barcelona on the top of Montjuic, and that’s equally as good. I absolutely love Dali though, and there is a large amount of his work in here. He is probably the greatest surrealist artist of all time. His paintings are almost dreamlike and fantastical, and there are usually a number of ways they can be interpreted. You can look at a painting again and again and see something different in it each time. A lot of his work contains sexual imagery as a result of his anxiety and conflicting views towards sex.

Unmistakable Miro……..
……………and Dali…..so many images within a picture ………….a tale of his conflicting views towards sex.

The second art gallery you should visit is the Museo de Prado, undoubtedly one of the greatest art museums in the world. This contains the work of Spanish and European artists going back centuries, so if you like the more traditional style of paintings, rather than the contemporary, then you will prefer this museum. It has whole rooms dedicated to some of its most prolific artists such as Goya, Velazquez, Rubens, El Greco and Titian. I absolutely adored it in this museum and could have spent days there.

Velazquez outside the Prado

My favourite pieces were Bosch ‘The Garden of Earthly Delights’, Velazquez ‘Las Meninas’, Sorolla ‘Boys on the Beach’ and Tintoretto ‘The Washing of the Feet’ – not because of the subject matter, as I’m not particularly religious, but because of his sheer genius in the use of perspective, making the image almost appear in 3D if you view it from the right hand side. I don’t have any pictures of the inside of the museum for you as it is prohibited to take photos in there, and that rule is enforced quite strictly. My tip for the Prado would be to pay extra for the audio guide. The museum is huge and you can’t possibly see it all on one visit or even in one day. I had 3 hours to spend there and the really good thing about the audio guide is that there are a couple of pre-set tours in there for 2, 3 and 4 hours, there may be more, I can’t remember. But if you decide how long you want to spend in there and select that tour, if you follow it, not only will you not get lost, but you will quite efficiently see all the major works that it is possible to see in that time frame. I chose the 3 hour tour, and it was almost spot on in its timing.

Statue of Goya in the courtyard

I would highly recommend a visit to both these galleries, but buy your tickets online in advance to skip the queues a little because the line to buy tickets was huge at both of them, and that was midweek in February.

Behind the Prado Museum is one of Madrid’s beautiful parks which you must visit – Parque del Buen Retiro. There are lakes, beautifully manicured gardens, the beautiful metal and glass Palacio de Cristal and yes you’ve guessed it……………….various men on various horses, amongst many other beautiful statues. There is also the most exquisite rose garden and I would love to see it and smell it in late spring and summer, I bet it is beautiful.

Palacio de Cristal
The rose garden

It was Saturday when I went to the park. The sun was out, and it was a lovely, warm day. The first signs of spring were starting to appear. So most of Madrid had gone to the park too. It had a lovely atmosphere. There are places you can get a drink and an ice cream, and it just seemed such a happy place. I would imagine it is also nice to go and just sit and read your book when it is quieter.

Signs of Spring
Tree blossom
General Martinez Campos on his horse.

Just outside the park on the way down to the city centre there is a throughfare that is lined with market stalls all selling books, mostly old books but some newer ones too. It’s a bit like a book flea market. I could have spent all afternoon browsing and buying. If you like books, it looked like my idea of heaven.

Second hand book market.
Bokes, books, and more books.

I wanted to get to the other side of the city and the weather was nice so I thought I’d walk. It was whilst I was wandering aimlessly in the direction of the other side of the city that I stumbled across what I think is my favourite part of Madrid. It’s called Barrio de las Letras, on account of all the well-known writers who lived here. Cervantes, author of Don Quijote, even has a street named after him, where he used to live. It’s a peaceful area, tree lined, cobbled streets, colourful with a bit of street art and it all comes together at the very pretty Plaza de Santa Ana, which contains a statue to the poet Federico Garcia Lorca. It’s a lovely area for just wandering around the little independent stores and it’s where I found my favourite little coffee shop which I’ll share with you when I tell you about food. It’s my sort of area and I loved it. If you want cocktail bars, high street stores and fast food you won’t like it, you need to be on Gran Via, but if you want a bit of time wandering in the slow lane come here, you’ll love it.

Barrio de las Letras
Street where Cervantes lived and died.
Street art
Statue to Lorca in the very lovely Plaza de Santa Ana.

Towards the centre of the city, as you make your way over to the other side, you will come across the Puerta del Sol. It is one of the busiest places in the city and contains quite a few things. Firstly, it contains the plaque to the Kilometre Zero (KM0), the point from which all radial roads in Spain are measured. It was established in 1857, and there are 6 roads numbered N1 to N6, which radiate clockwise from this point.

Kilometre 0

Also in Puerta del Sol is the statue of the Bear and the Madroño Tree, heraldic symbol of Madrid.

Bear and the Madroño Tree

And you’ll never guess what else there is……………………………yes, there’s a man on a horse………this time its Carlos III.

Carlos III

If you walk right to the west side of the city, you will come to the Royal Palace. It looks very pretty and apparently is very beautiful but I just didn’t have the time to go inside and by that time I’d spent that long wandering around I just could not be bothered to walk any further. Luckily though, opposite the Royal Palace is the Plaza de Oriente. This is a very pretty square, overlooked by the very nice Cafe de Oriente where you can treat yourself to a posh cup of coffee whilst overlooking the very pretty gardens which contain a statue of…………………wait for it……………..a man on a horse! This time, it’s Felipe IV.

The Royal Palace
Felipe IV on his horse

While you are over here, you are not too far away from the Plaza de Espana. If fountains are your thing, then this square contains a lovely one.

Plaza de Espana fountain.

The final place I wanted to go to was the bull ring. The easiest way to get there would be bus or metro. It’s a good couple of miles out of the city. However, on this particular day, I was wandering aimlessly to the bus stop when I came to a Police cordon. Then came the helicopters, then the riot vans, then tens of thousands of pro-Palestinian supporters on a protest march, which I suddenly found myself amongst. Given that I don’t really like lots of people and noise, it wasn’t my greatest moment! They were all very friendly, but I shot down a side street as soon as I could and walked all the way to the bull ring, as all public transport was temporarily stopped. That’s how I know it’s a LONG WAY! Take the bus or metro. My plan was to get the bus back into the city, that was until two drove past me completely full because Atletico de Madrid had just defeated Las Palmas 5-0 and everyone was on their way back to the city. The metro was the same, so I walked it all the way back too. But I did have a midway stop in a cake shop for fuel!

Bull Ring statue
Matador

The bull ring, known as Las Ventas, was nice. It is Arabic in style and is the largest in Spain and third largest in the world. They do guided tours, and if you have never been a bull ring, I would say it would be worth going inside to learn about the history of the bull ring and the life and costumes of the matadors. I did not go inside because I think once you’ve seen one bull ring they are probably all quite similar and I have recently been inside the bullring in Seville, which some claim to be the most beautiful in the world. There are a number of statues outside, and these are worth a little look. There are some of bulls and some of famous matadors such as Antonio Bienvenida from Venezuela, who was one of Madrid’s most famous matadors who came to a sticky end in 1975 after an altercation with a young heifer on a local ranch. There is also an interesting statue celebrating the scientist Alexander Fleming, and I did wonder what a statue to him was doing outside a bullring. Well, bullfighters were a big fan of his as he developed Penicillin. and apparently, when you are gored by a bull, a decent amount of bacteria from the bull’s horn finds its way into the wound. Therefore, Alexander and his Penicillin were the saviour of many a gored matador!

Antonio Bienvenida and his gang.
Dr. Alexander Fleming

Now to tell you about food! My favourite subject. What did I eat and where?

When in Spain you just have to have churros and chocolate……….chocolate so thick you can stand your spoon up in it. Not too far from the hotel was the quite well-known Chocolateria San Gines. It has a number of outlets all clustered together in the same area and they are open 24/7……………….yes, you can have churros and chocolate at 3am if you want! So my first breakfast was of churros and chocolate, and having eyes bigger than my belly, I had 6 churros and felt quite sick afterwards. Well recommended though, they were delicious!

Chocolateria San Gines
Oh yes! Chocolate and churros.

Madrid, like many cities in Spain, has a number of fantastic food markets, where not only can you do your food shopping, you can also eat and drink inside them. There are usually lots of different stalls selling a whole host of different local food products, and they are a fantastic place to try all sorts of local cuisine. Just behind the Plaza Major, there is a bustling one called Mercado de San Miguel. I loved this one.

Mercado San Miguel
Busy, busy, busy!

It was so authentic and filled with mainly Spanish and local people. It was very busy to say it was a Monday lunchtime. Each stall tends to specialise in a different food. There were stalls with seafood, olives, cheese, sausages, wine, cider…………………it was heaven!!!

Just how many sausages can one eat?
Fishy pinxtos
Olives

The trouble is there is too much choice and I can’t decide. I had a couple of glasses of Albariño wine. To eat, I had some fried seafood, then some cheeses, then a pinxto with chorizo, goats cheese and peppers as I felt like I was missing some sausage……..you can’t come to Spain and not have sausage. You must visit this or another market if you come, it’s such good fun.

First course
Second course
Third course

If you feel like some proper, traditional, and authentic food one night, I can highly recommend a little restaurant called Taberna La Carmencita in Chueca. The taberna has been around since 1854 and was the regular haunt of legendary poet Pablo Neruda. It has a lovely menu of traditional, wholesome Spanish dishes, and when you walk in, you are transported back to 1854.

Taberna La Carmencita

The walls are all tiled, the floor wooden, with old dark wood tables and chairs and quite dim lighting. The staff were lovely and although they had a busy evening they found me a perfect little table for one in the window. I ordered ‘Paletilla de Cordero’, which was a lovely shoulder of lamb casseroled with seasonal vegetables and served with some baked potato wedges. While I was waiting, they brought me an appetiser of warm, crusty, toasted bread and duck liver pate.

Pretty little window table just for me.
Duck liver pate and toast
A very delicious traditional lamb stew – ‘Paletilla de Cordero’.

It you are looking for something simple for breakfast, brunch, a fantastic cup of coffee, or both, I recommend Cafe Gosto in Barrio de las Letras. They do the most delicious avocado and almond toast along with all sorts of other tostadas, snacks, and cakes, and their coffee is delicious.

Brunch – Smashed avocado and almonds on toast and just the best coffee.

If you like biscuits and cookies, you should also go to the monastery of Corpus Christi and buy some cookies freshly baked by the nuns. It’s worth going for the experience of buying them. It looks like a bit of a drug handover. If you go to Calle del Codo 3, you will come to a door with a sign on that says ‘Venta de Dulces’. Ring the doorbell that says ‘Las Monjas’ (Nuns), and they will buzz you through the door.

Ring the bell for ‘Las Monjas’

Follow the signs until you come to a Lazy Susan turntable built into the wall. There is a price list and a list of cookies available on the wall at the side. There are shortbreads, almond cookies, orange cookies, and quite a few more. You can’t see the nuns, they are not allowed to be seen. You ask for the cookies you want and put your money on the turntable. They twizzle it around, you take your cookies they have put on the turntable, and they take your money.

Nevaditos

The cookies come in 500g or 1kg boxes. It might sound like a large quantity, but they are so delicious I had no issues devouring a 500g box to myself over the course of the week. I’m sure that will not surprise anyone. Most of them I ate on Valentines night in bed with my PJ’s on. I started off with a lovely glass of wine in the hotel bar but then I thought, do you know what, a good film with my cookies and PJ’s in bed would be a much better idea!

Valentines night………
……………….oh but this is a much better date, with my PJ’s and cookies!
This is a fact……………………and is one reason why you should eat cookies!

Finally, I need to tell you about Calle Cava Baja in the La Latina area. This is affectionately known as ‘tapas street’. A number of cities have one major street which has been taken over by eateries and bars where you can just work your way from one bar to the other, or you can just sit in one, it’s up to you. It was Saturday night when I went down Calle Cava Baja, so it was heaving with people. I found myself in a tapas bar called La Concha. I was attracted by the pretty turquoise blue and red façade and an excellent tapas menu.

Busy Calle Cava Baja
La Concha

I was intrigued as to what everyone was drinking. They all seemed to be drinking the same thing. I was told it was a ‘Manuela’. Not wanting to be left out, I ordered one without really knowing what it was. Anyway, it transpires that the Manuela is named after the daughter of the owner. It is made by putting an ice cube in a martini glass, spraying it with gin three times exactly, dropping in a cocktail stick with an olive and a piece or orange peel on it, pouring in vermouth and then topping the glass up with a generous serving of Campari bitters. The nearest thing I can liken the taste to is a Negroni, and I love a Negroni! It’s La Concha’s Spanish Negroni with the vermouth replacing the martini. It went really well with my tapas of albóndigas (meatballs) and a roasted pepper dish with gratinated local cheese and crusty bread.

The ‘Manuela’
Albóndigas – Meatballs
A local cheese and pepper gratin.

That’s about all I had time to squeeze into my three days in Madrid but hopefully that should give you an idea as to what it’s like, some top tips as to the main places to visit and where to sample some good Spanish food. It’s an amazing city, not my favourite, by a long way, perhaps a bit too busy for me. But if you like gigantic cities with lots going on, like London, you’ll love it. I think I prefer smaller cities. I preferred Porto to Lisbon, I’d choose Bologna or Sienna over Florence or Venice, I’d choose Barcelona, Seville, Salamanca, Granada or Bilbao in the Basque country over Madrid. They are just that bit smaller and more authentic to me, and I just feel more relaxed and at home in them, but everybody is different, and I’d certainly recommend Madrid.

To follow………….Segovia, Salamanca and Toledo…………..when I have time to write, because I am now just 5 weeks away (sounds better than 35 days) from my marathon. So if I’m not working, sleeping or eating…………..I’m running or having a tantrum about running. 😂 Adios for now!