This is a very belated post on Malaga, which I visited in October after Granada. I was dreaming of sunshine this week and thought I must write post on Malaga and sort my photos as it was such a lovely place that is very under-rated. When I’m away on holiday I don’t like to come back a day before the end of the school holiday. I just had two days to squeeze another city in. This strategy did backfire on me in May this year when I went to Palma, Mallorca. I booked an 11pm flight back home and I was due at work the next morning. The flight was delayed, I arrived back in Manchester at 5am and was at my office desk at 7am……not the greatest plan and the last time I will get such a late flight back…….probably my most unproductive work day ever!
This October half term I was flying back from Malaga, so it seemed the perfect choice to finish off the half term break.
I’ll be honest with you I wasn’t expecting much. I don’t like package holiday destinations and I don’t like being surrounded by lots of tourists and British stuff when I’m away as that’s what I’ve gone to get away from, people and home. Malaga’s proximity to the Costa del Sol hotspots, which would contain both of these, made me a little apprehensive. Its port also hosts lots of cruise ships and there’s nothing worse than trying to look around a city when the cruise ship has just disembarked its passengers.
However, Malaga was such a surprise. I absolutely loved it. I only had to time to explore the Centro/Old Town area and the port but I really did like what I saw. I stayed in a lovely apartment in a quiet red and white paved street in the old town. All the apartments were set around a pretty tiled courtyard with a little water feature in the middle. It was really pretty.
I travelled there by bus from Granada and arrived just before dinner time so the first stop was a wander around the old town, drinks and dinner. I went for Italian tonight for a change and had quite possibly the best Campari soda I’ve had outside of Italy. It was delicious. The cathedral and the streets were really pretty at night and I was really surprised by how busy and lively it was. It’s much livelier than Granada at night.
A big lie in bed was needed the next morning as all the walking around Granada and the travelling had worn me out. After breakfast my first visit was to the cathedral. This one was beautiful and was almost as nice as those I have seen in northern Spain. There was lots of carved marble sculptures, vaulted ceilings, lots of gold leaf and the most beautifully ornate organ. Definitely a must see if you are in Malaga.
Then it was on to the Picasso Museum. This I really wanted to see as I do like Picasso and Malaga is his birthplace, so it’s one not to miss. I’ve been to the Picasso museum in Barcelona which is arguably one of the best in the world but the Malaga museum, although a lot smaller, had some real highlights in it and I really enjoyed it. It was organised in chronological order and was really easy to follow. I particularly liked his portrait of his sister Lola which he did when he was only 13 years old. His talent at such a young age is clearly evident. His portrait of his Russian wife Olga which he painted in 1923 was so simple yet so lifelike. When you examine it closely it is just a faint wash of beige, rose and brown on the background and then in a sepia colour with simple lines he has just picked out her main features. There are very few brushstrokes on the paper and very little colour but it is beautiful. Then the exhibition went on to explore his work with cubism and some of his more colourful paintings. Completely different to his portraits of Lola and Olga but show his journey as an artist. I really enjoyed my visit.
Next port of call was quite literally the port, very nice and containing some beautiful boats. Then I just had time for a quick visit to the Roman amphitheatre.
A quick shower and change and then out for what was probably the best dinner of my stay in both Granada and Malaga. Tapas at the very delightful El Meson de Cervantes. It was outstanding. Baby squid and spinach with sea salt, swordfish and stir fry vegetables in hoisin sauce, mushroom and pumpkin risotto, mushroom with leeks and asparagus, lamb stew and mint with couscous …………… and I even had room for home made fig flan afterwards! I would go back here again and again.
After dinner I was lucky enough to catch one of those huge religious processions they have where they parade the Virgin Mary through the streets with all the music, band and fanfare. Every generation of every family seems to line the street. No-one does these quite like they do in Spain and Italy and we have nothing that remotely resembles this in the UK.
The following final half day was spent visiting the Alcazaba of Malaga, the Muslim fortress on a hilltop which looks over the old town and the port. It is nowhere near as vast, grand or beautiful as the Alhambra in Granada but definitely worth an hour or two of your time if you are in Malaga. Lovely gardens, plants and views over the port.
Just one last stop before it was time to go for the flight home. If I am ever misplaced or lost on holiday, or if I ever just disappear, don’t worry about me, there’s only one place I will be and it’s here, I’m easily found. The Heladaria…………..or ice cream shop! I’ll have an ice cream in my hand as big as my head and I’ll be wearing a big smile. Two flavours on this one………..Turron and then Caramelised Walnuts and Honey! They went lovely together.
Sadly then it was time for the flight back to the cold and wet UK to start planning my escapes for next year. Lots more adventures to be had at home though before then! So thumbs up for Malaga, a very enjoyable two days which surpassed my expectations. If you get the chance, go!